New Product - "WoodRat - Makes All Sorts of Joints - Making My First Dovetail"

	With my one finished end, I quickly review the steps to see that, in fact, I did what I was supposed to do.  So now, I can make the mating end.
I have placed the completed "A" board in the Marker clamp. The next step is very easy. Instead of lining up the grooves with the marks, I now line up the wood tails with the marks. Wherever I have wood, I need to cut a groove — it is that simple. The close-up shows the first pin (wood) lined up with the original cut marks.
	I clamp the "B" board in the Cutter position. Remember, the two clamps are on the movable carriage. Move one, the other stays in exact registration. My only task now is to be sure that I clamp the "B" board with the top against the base. I am ready to cut.
I make the cut. I now have one groove that is positioned on that first pin in "A". I move the carriage to the second pin; make the cut; move to the 3rd — and so on. This couldn't be easier.
	Well, what do you think. It is my first WoodRat joint and I think it is about 98% on. The "uncentered" joint matches up exactly, and that is important. It is not too tight and not too loose. In one finger where there is about 1/64" "slop", that probably was my not lining up the Marker totally.    For a first effort, I think this proves that you can do tight, accurate and repeatable joints.
The purpose of doing the box joint was to get acquainted with the system. For the next hour or two, Sal and I attempted to go step-by-step through the tutorial.    We made a dovetail joint, but not one that I would be proud of. If you look closely, the main problem is not having set the depth of the dovetail bit correctly.    But, in fact, this one joint was the result of 3 or 4 tests. I was clearly not reading and understanding the instructions.    With it being 86o and very humid, we quit for the day. I took the manual back inside. Tomorrow is a new day.
	Another day — and total success. After doing some more reading last night, I found my error(s). There is no point in going over them. Instead, I   started the day off with a brand new set of sides and an understanding of how the WoodRat really works.    It worked so well, that I immediately abandoned the poplar test pieces and pulled some treasured pieces of hardwood off the shelf. I then selected the smallest dovetail bit that would work on this stock. It is a 7o 1/4" dovetail bit. It gives a look that is as close as you can get to the old masters' hand dovetails.    In the test of yesterday (photo above), the final joint was "pure chance." The photo at left is the much harder to make, but it worked the first time because, I now know how the WoodRat works — it is a nice feeling. As Yogi would say, "It's simple, once you know how."    I will go through the step-by-step of this corner, so you, too, can understand how the WoodRat works.
I start by cutting the wood to the exact same widths. Then I select the smallest dovetail cutter that has enough depth to cut this wood. This is the 7o 8mm bit — one of many high steel, high quality bits that WoodRat offers. It is teeny. At this point, I didn't know if it could handle these relatively hard woods, but it seemed worth a try.
	I am erasing the many marks that I pencilled on the fixture during my first "attempts." I will buy a good size eraser soon. A sharp pencil mark is key to the whole system.
The next step is to take a piece of scrap and slice it so that one piece is thick and one thin.
	I install the small dovetail bit in the router. It is an 8mm bit, so I use the 8mm adapter that comes with the bit set. This is a size that is common in Europe — more common that the 1/4" size that we are use to.
With the narrow piece of the test block fastened in the Cutter clamp and raised so that it touches the underside of the carriage, I lower the bit so that it just touches the top of the wood. That is my "zero" depth position.
	I raise the height adjustment foot the distance of the "pin" stock plus a little bit, and tighten the knob. Now I can plunge and lock the router at the cutting depth.
With the slide set to make straight, 90o cuts, I make a cut in the thin sample piece.