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A couple of weeks ago, I tackled the task of making 1/2-blind or stopped
dovetails, and it "was a piece of cake." The photo at the left is the picture of
the completed first effort. It was a good fit.
When I came out to do this tutorial, I had a hard time making them — I
had "fallen off the learning curve." I could tell you all my trials and
tribulations, but I think it would be more useful to tell you what I did — I started
over.
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I have opened the manual to
the end section where an addendum is "Reminder Guide to Through Dovetails." I
know. I want to make 1/2-blind DT's. Fact is, if you can make through dovetails, the
stopped DT is easy. So I am going to go through this tutorial again — mainly because
I finally figured out how to make the "button" work right.
If your manual is older and doesn't have this great tutorial, you can
download it in "pdf" form. It is great. Be aware that "pdf" files take
a while to download — you may think your PC is locked up. It isn't — it is just
downloading. [Click here to
download.]
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Step 1 is to set up the WoodRat with the centerplate in place and the
left-spiral locked so the router will cut square. (Remember, I had marked the base with
pencil marks the first time I squared the unit.]
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Step 2 - install
the desired dovetail bit. I have selected the 12mm bit [WR-8-7-24-12].
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Step 3 - I have some test
strips from earlier. I simply have cut the top, used section off. I have used the broad
marker on both to indicate the side that will go next to the clamp.
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Step 3, continued - I have
placed the thin one in the cutter position. [It is flush against the underside of the
base.]
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Step 3, continued - I zero the cutter to the top of the test strip.
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Step 4 - With the bit zeroed (touching the board), I use one of the pin
(side) boards to set the plunge depth mechanism.
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Step 5 - I plunge the
router to the preset depth and make the sample socket cut. The inset shows the cut. I have
centered it by eye — it doesn't need to be exact. When making this cut, remember it
is a "square" cut and that the router plate must be kept against the left
spiral.
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Step 6 - I place the cut sample
in the marker position. I am careful to place the broad mark against the clamp. I use a
sharp pencil to outline the inside of this cut.
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Step 6, continued - I have
removed the wood to show the mark.
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Step 7 - Now I have placed
the larger of the sample sticks with the broad mark on the left against the clamp. I
adjust the router height so that I just touch the top. I route a very shallow groove. For
now, I remove it and put it in a safe place for use later.
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Step 8 - I use the
parallelogram to mark even spaces across the pin (front) piece. The inset shows that marks
I have made.
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Step 8, continued - I place
the two side pieces together in the cutter clamp position.
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Step 9 -
I cut the tails. I make three cuts carefully positioning the piece I marked at "The
Mark" that I have pencilled on the base unit. The "1, 2, 3" inset shows the
line-up at each of the cut points. It is that easy.
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Voila — I
have my two sides cut with nice tails at one end. I "somersault" the boards to
do the same on the other end.
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