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It is time to make the raised panel for the nice mortise and tenon
frame. Normally, I would install this raised panel cutter in the router table and make the
panels. I do not think that it is a bit I would use with the WoodRat. There a several
reasons, but the one that I think is most important is that is would be hard to hold the
panel up against the underside of the router base — you would want more than a brush
or two.
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The WoodRat Manual gives two
recommended ways to make the raised panel: 1) with a vertical panel cutter (left) and 2)
with the straight bit (right). I will try them both.
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I
start by installing their 1/2" straight cutter. I wanted to see if it had enough
reach under the table. As you can see, it has plenty.
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I thought I
would have to make a new mortising rail to hold the panels at an angle, but I followed the
Manual's instructions and simply clamped the mortising rail in the cam clamps at the angle
I wanted. I used the protractor to measure 12o which looked about right. The
rail clamps very securely at this angle. I drew pencil lines of this angle on the blocks
in the clamps so that next time I can set it up without using the protractor.
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The blank panel is clamped
in place and I am ready to start the cutting.
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Rather than rotate the piece
on each pass, as I would do on the router table, I worked on one side at a time. I took
many small cuts with the bit plunged the full depth.
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When I made the final cut, I placed this locking clamp in position. This will
serve as a stop for making the final cuts on the other sides.
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This medium shot gives a better view of the actual cutting operation. It
couldn't be simpler. I just crank the mortising bar back and forth, changing the cutter
position about 1/16" per cut.
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I show this close-up of the
very last cut. You can see that each side matches by looking at the sharpness of the
corners. It took a little longer using the straight bit, but clearly, it is a method that
works well. The shaped edge will take a little sanding, even though I was careful to make
small passes.
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Next, I will raise the other
panel using the vertical panel cutting bit. I have to raise the whole router base to give
me some clearance for this bit. The WoodRat comes with two of these spacers — each
one adds about 1/2" to the height of the unit.
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Here is an under the base
look at the vertical panel bit installed. You can see that the vertical panel bit has to
be installed slightly lower than the router base so that it clears it. For that reason, I
have clamped the panel away from this base, as well. I used the acrylic spacer
(arrow) to give me uniform spacing — just be sure to remove the spacer before making
the cut.
I am using the mortising rail again; I think it gives better clamp surface.
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I am starting the cut. I
simply crank the workpiece across the cutter.
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I was able to make the
raised panel in fewer cuts using the vertical panel cutter. I am not sure if that is the
type of cutter or what, but with this vertical panel cutter, I made three cuts per side.
You can see that I am using the little clamp to indicate the final cut.
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This panel is as good as
you can get with any method.
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Here are
both the raised panels. I think that the WoodRat performed very well in making the raised
panel doors. My preference is in using the vertical panel bit, but for anyone who would
make an occasional door, the straight bit works admirably.
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