New Product - "WoodRat - Makes All Sorts of Joints - Making a raised panel door."

	The groove that will be cut will be 8mm deep. That is the thickness of the acrylic piece, so I raise the plunge depth just enough to allow the piece to fit snugly in the plunge depth mechanism.    By the way, you know that I love to use methods such as these — anything that doesn't require measuring. Using metric does make me stop and calculate a bit. Ordinarily, I would cut this groove 1/4" deep. Eight millimeters is about 1/3" (8/25.5) so it seems like too small a groove, but in fact it is a bit deeper than I would normally use — which is fine. This metric stuff may be a keeper.
Sorry about the bad picture, my hands are in the way. What I am doing is using the same acrylic piece to draw lines on the two ends of the tenons. I will use these lines for lining up the router to cut the haunches.
	I use the hand crank to position the tenons and then make the cut. It couldn't be easier of faster.
The arrow points to the nice haunched tenon cut. My right hand is holding the acrylic strip on the shoulder to show that the haunch is exactly that depth. All I need to do is to cut the groove for the haunch to fit.
	I have switched bits and now have the 10mm straight bit installed. I am clamping the mortising rail in the two clamps.
The instructions call for use of the brush to hold the stock against the bottom of the rail. This would be necessary on pieces that were too long for the carriage movement. In this example, all the rails and stiles are within the range, so I clamp the shorter rail piece to the attachment and will use the crank to make the moves for the grooves.    All I have to remember is to have the face of the rails against the mortising rail (away from me.)
	I have laid one of the rails on the base and have drawn lines representing both the outside edges of the rail AND the edges of the tenon.
I use the same router positioning techniques as before. I have fastened the acrylic piece with the 10mm notch over the marked guide rail. I have positioned the bit over the rail and have locked the star knob to anchor the router placement.
	Here is a close-up of the underside. The router bit is located using the notched acrylic, but I can double check   the alignment right here. In fact, you could align the bit for the grooving using the tenon, but the acrylic notched piece works very well.    I have depthed the bit using the acrylic piece so that I will groove exactly 8mm deep.
I said a minute ago, that all the pieces were short enough to simply crank through the cutters. The brush method could be used, and I did use it on the longer, stiles — for practice. It works fine. Please note that I have screwed the brush onto a piece of pine so that I can clamp the pine and not the brush — which I did last week in error. It is really quite amazing how well this 50¢ brush works — I will have to remember this when making jigs for the table saw, router table — all the other shop tools.
	With my grooves cut all around, I lay my tenons over the mating stiles and mark the start and stop points for the mortise.
I set the plunge stop so that the mortise will be the 3/4" (tenon size) plus an 1/8".
	I use the crank to position the router bit to where I want it and I make a plunge cut. I make a series of full, plunge cuts until I reach the other mark. Then, unplunged, I return to the right end. This time I make a "cleaning" cut by simply plunging to the full depth and cranking the rail until the bit reaches the far left hole.
Well it looks perfect and it should fit, except for one thing. My mortise has round ends and the tenon has square ends.    I have always thought that it is easier to round over the tenon edges. What I usually do is use a gouge with a 1/4" radius and pare away the corners. But since the WoodRat inventor, Martin Godfrey, was emphatic in his instructional video that using a chisel to square the mortise is easier, I tried that.
	Well, he is so right! For so many years and many, many mortises, I assumed squaring the ends to the full depth would be difficult. It is not.
A nice and square mortise. The test will be in the fit.
	One of four close, tight mortise and haunched tenon corners.    The next step will be for making the raised panel door to fit this frame, but I am out of time, so will start there next week.    Come on back; the WoodRat is proving to be a fun, capable, and accurate device.