I mentioned before, you have to
remember to unlock and lock the height adjustment lock when using the RouterRaizer. It is
easy to forget this step.
It is relatively easy to lean over and reach in and do it, but I want to
close up the top compartment so that I can connect the dust collector and use the top
cabinet space as a downdraft chamber to be used when the fence is not in use.
At right, is my new locking lever, at least a part of it..
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Here is how I
made the locking lever. Arrow "A" is pointing to the screw that is a part
of the Hitachi M12V router. I have removed it and have extracted the locking lever and the
retainer clips. A 6-point 5/8" socket wrench ("B") fits over the head of
this piece.
Here, I have mixed up some epoxy and have "welded" the socket to
the Hitachi part. The swivel is attached just to keep the assembly from rolling around
while the epoxy cures.
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The part is cured (far left). Here are
the rest of the pieces — all standard 3/8" wrench parts except for the
"handle." I found a large Allen wrench that was too large, and I filed one end
square until it fit into the socket extension.
When I found the right combination of lengths and swivels, I epoxied the
handle into the last socket. The other parts are not glued but stay together by their ball
catch mechanism.
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I have drilled a 3/4"
hole and elongated it so that the shaft of the extension can move up and down with the
movement of the router.
It works, and it works well. With the combination of the bent
wrench, RouterRaizer and this remote lock, I can use this router table exactly as I would
a shaper — working from above the table. I like that.
The speed control still has to be set on the router by reaching in — I
haven't been able to make that "remote" yet. But in use, the speed control isn't
adjusted that often.
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Next, I want to add a port for
the dust collector. From the inside, I have drilled a 3/4" hole to indicate
where I want the DC port to be. Now, on the back, I have used the dust port to draw
the inside diameter which I am now cutting out..
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Four 3/4" sheet metal screws hold
the port in place. I am ready to use this port, almost.
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Just a few more
things to do. Here, I have mounted a switched receptacle box to the side of the cabinet.
The shiney "U" is a pegboard hook that I have taped to the router's
electrical cord — not elegant, but it works.
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This is the reason
for the hook. When I am changing bits, I can unplug and hang the hook over the rod that
goes to the shaft lock. This also reminds me to be sure that the shaft is unlocked before
I plug the router back in.
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With previous routers, I have left the
router cord loose inside or let it dangle (and get tangled) on the outside. Two 75-cent
coat hooks are installed here to wrap the cord around. A reusable cord wrap helps keep in
place.
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I still have a few things to do, and it
will take a day or two to get them done, so I will stop right now so that I can post what
I have. Coming next is the finishing of the lower downdraft cabinet and some jigs for
using the T-tracks and miter slot and using it.
I have taken more time doing the little extras and for a good reason
— this router table promises to be all the great tool that it is cracked up to be.
See you next week with a finished router table in action.
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