This is the completed table with fence installed. Before I show you all the great design features, there are a number of things I want to do to this table that I think will make it even more useable in my shop. They are:

• add a mobile base,

• add a drawer for router bits,

• add shelves for storage of jigs,

• install a router elevator (RouterRaizer™)
  and a remote height adjustment lock lever,

• enclose the router and add DC outlet,

• make some fences and jigs, and

• USE IT!!!.
     
  

   First,   I want to make the whole unit mobile. I have upended the unit and am starting to add a mobile base [available from Rockler.] I find that this unit is the easiest to install and use.

   I start by ripping some pieces of 3/4" hardwood ply into 1 1/2" strips. I have glued two strips together and am now stapling them. These 1 1/2" square pieces will be cut into lengths to tie the four corner sections of the mobile base together.

    I have cut one of the sides to the right length and am bolting it to the corners. I add a drop of Thread Lock on each bolt to keep the nuts from loosening in use.

   A half an hour later, and the unit is turned back to its right position and is now mobile.
   The two doors are part of the base cabinet and are quickly mounted in the pre-drilled holes. This bottom section will prove to be an invaluable storage area.

   Take a look at the section that holds the router. With the router all the way lowered, there is a lot of room going to waste — 3 1/2" in this case. So, my next task will be to add a shallow drawer for router bits. They will be more convenient here, than in the lower area. This space will vary depending on the router used.

      The space is 24 1/2" by 18 1/2" — that will give me quite a bit of storage. Since it is too late for me to cut dadoes in the base cabinet, I will build the drawer as a complete unit which can be slid into this section.

      I have had this glued up piece of 5/4" pine here forever. It will be the perfect bottom for the drawer. I want something thick enough so that the bits can stand upright. [Note, the new Rockler Sliding Table — it is working out very well.]

   With the wood cut to size, I double check the width so that it will fit the slides exactly. As I have demonstrated before, I use the 1" width of my straight edge to check the width. This allows for the 1/2" that is required for the two slides. To the right of the ruler are the sides which I have cut from 1/2" MDF.

   I draw lines 1 1/2" apart.

  I use a 1/2" brad point bit to drill the holes at each intersection. I have tested this bit and found the size to be just right. It allows a 1/2" shank to be inserted and removed easily.
   I drill all the way through. I will add a bottom in a minute.

   I add beads of glue onto the bottom [I did not need to spread so much — it is so nice to have warm days where glue can flow at all, I got carried away. Spring is good.]

   I use 3/4" narrow crown stapler to tack a piece of 1/4" ply in place. I will trim it flush to the wood base next.

   I attach the slides to the wood base. By the way, I sanded off my pencil grid marks. It looks much better now and will give me a clean surface to add labels.

   Now I screw the slide into the side. Note that I have placed the straight edge under the drawer. This will give me 1/8" space between the drawer and the case in the final assembly.

   I screw the whole drawer/slide unit to the cabinet.

   Well, all the bits will fit nicely except for the few taller ones — like this 2" trim bit.

   I set the router to cut two grooves for the long bits. I have set the small spring clamps on the fence to give me an indication of the start and stop points for this plunge cut.

   They will work fine.

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