"A tour with Beth of the features and benefits."

    Beth finally gets to use the new router table for routing.

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  She uses the push pad method that she has used before — guiding against the fence. Having the miter track means that we can use it when it makes sense, but it doesn't mean that it makes sense for every cut.
   The zero clearance insert proves a great help in cutting the small rail pieces.

   She inspects the cut — it is a perfect coped end. Now she can switch cutters, cut a new insert and do the other profile.

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     We skipped to the final cutting of this mating profile, but for information sake, it took less than five minutes to make the whole change, including cutting the new insert.
   Here Beth is making the profile cut on the rail and stiles.

       As an aside, we get so caught up with doing things the same way, time after time, that we forget that there are other ways. I have watched Marc's demonstrations and have always liked this simple holddown block. It just fits this one piece, but is so simple, it would make sense to have a number of sizes around.

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   On ours, I have added a piece of 120 grit sandpaper to have a more positive hold on the work piece — now, back to the story.

    The pieces match perfectly, as they should with such a really great set-up as this.

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    I said a minute ago that we would be using the miter slot when it made sense to use it. Beth and I have gotten very skilled using small holddown jigs that guide against the fence.
   Here, she tries out a standard miter gauge to which we have added the hold-down accessory (Delta).

        Beth sets up to make a cut and decides that using the fence will work better.  This miter gauge just doesn't have the support where it counts.
  

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   When I heard that the new table would have a miter track, this Delta Sliding Shaper Jig  (photo from the Delta website) came to mind. I have seen it used on shaper tables, and it seems like it would work well.
   There are two problems that I found: 1) it is around $100 and 2) it has a 1/2" thick base plate which means the router bit has to come up that much further. This is easy to do on a shaper; not easy with a router.

     Beth is looking over my shopmade "equivalent." It uses an Incra miter slide. I like these because they are adjustable to the miter slot — you can make then travel easily or with a push...you can even lock them in place.
   I have adjusted this one to slide smoothly in the table's miter slot but with no play. I may trim off the length. It isn't necessary for use of this jig, but right now I will leave it long until I settle on the design.

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   I have used a piece of 3/4" white melamine for this prototype. Once I have it "refined", I will use phenolic — it machines better and will keep its shape. The white melamine jig will probably warp in time
   Beth's left hand it at the area that will hold the workpiece. I have dadoed this area to about 1/4" thickness and have added sandpaper to hold the wood.
   I dadoed a groove for the adjustable clamp bar and attached that with machine screws that are countersunk from the bottom.

     It works — and it works well, but we use the fence set up most of the time. It is a good jig to have, and the phenolic version will be better.
   I am going to close up this presentation...time is running out. I do have some hold downs that are in the works that will make great use of the T-tracks. I will add those soon. I also have some Board Buddies™ that I need to convert for use here.
   I can say, that both Beth and I are eager to get started using this really fine table/fence system on some real woodworking projects. All this, and more, will be added next time.

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