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   Well, I promise, this is the last time I will show you this "old" art. This week, I finally made the drawers for this template and router bit storage cabinet.

  I started by cutting one birch plywood panel into exact dimensions for each of the drawer fronts. Note that I have installed the sliding table and overarm guard that is a part of the SuperStation. I have it all photographed and will get the installation of these items up on this site next week. They do work well, though.

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    I mark each drawer front as I cut it so that I can keep the grain pattern in the right orientation. This certainly isn't necessary on shop cabinets, but I do it for practice — plus I like the shop cabinets to look good.

   If you recall, I have already mounted slides in the cabinet and the slides I use require 1/2" space on both sides. This means that the drawer width must be 1" less that the cabinet inside width.
   If you have installed slides, you know that this 1" in critical. A 16th off in either way will give you a drawer that doesn't work smoothly—or not fit at all.
   At right, I have measured the inside width and set the stop to give me a width about 1/8" too wide.

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   Then at the cabinet, I try it in place and use the width of the adjustable square to tell me how much I have to remove. The square's edge is exactly 1" so when I can fit that into the space between the drawer and the side, I know I will have a good fitting drawer.

    I move the stop in slightly and make another cut. I keep doing this until the test piece and the adjustable square can fit the opening smoothly.
   Once set, I cut all the front and backs of the drawers. I mark them as well. This is important since the sides are very close to the same size, and I do not want to mix them during the milling of the dovetails.

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    With all the pieces cut and marked, I am ready to start dovetailing. The first task is to look through the Template Guide to see which router bit and template I should use. Since I am making half-blind dovetails in 3/4" stock, it takes just a second to locate the template.
   The template indicates that I should use a 5/8"   7o dovetail bit, and the bit height should be 1/2".

  With the router unplugged and the shaft locked, I use my bent wrench to secure the dovetail bit in place.

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   I will set the bit height by using the accuracy of the Rout-R-Lift. I start by laying a scrap of wood on the bit and turn the knob counter-clockwise until the block is lowered and level with the plate. That is the "O" position.

   I remove the crank and orient it to 0o and then turn the crank clockwise 10 turns. Here is how I figured that: each turn equals .05" and I want a bit height of 1/2"or 0.5". This is so much more accurate than using any height gauge — not to mention faster.

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   Next, I want to set the fence so that the bit is at the center point. I start by measuring the width of the board. Instead of dividing this in half, I will use the new Incra centering scale — it is a nice addition to the system.

   I start by adjusting the fence so that the bit is just hidden by the fence. I lock the fence at that position.

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I then set the centering template (at bottom) so that the bit diameter (5/8") is under the black line. (If it appears slightly off in photo, it is due to camera angle.)

   With the centering scale zeroed, I move the fence until the width of my stock (6") is indicated on the same centering scale. I lock the shaft at this point.

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   Since this is my first effort with the centering scale, I do a test cut to double check. As in earlier demos, what I do is cut a test board and then turn it around and cut it a second time. I then use the micro adjustment feature to center the bit in the opening. In this case, the adjustment was not necessary. The centerline template gave me a perfectly centered dovetail bit.

   So now I select the template I need. This is a "sneak preview" of two trays I have cut to hold the 50 templates. These trays will be in the top drawers of the cabinet and should make it easy to keep them in order and dust free (well relatively.)

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   With the fence locked at the center point, I insert the template and place the recommended center position under the site line. I am ready to cut tails.

 

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