SuperStation Project - Standing Bar  - "Making the Drawers"

	I am ready to make the dovetails. I first mark the center of a scrap piece of wood. It is a scrap that is the exact same width as the drawer sides.    By the way, Incra has a centering scale that is easy to use. I fall back on this method, since I am familiar with it and know it works.
I now center the piece so that my center mark lines up with the center of the bit. All the dovetail bits have a small hole in the end. This is used in the manufacturing process and comes in very handy when centering by eye.    With the piece centered, I bring the fence over and lock it in place.
	With the fence locked at the center point, I route one cut; turn the board around and make the cut again. If the centering process is off a bit, the cut will be widened by the amount of the error.
I can see that the center is off a wee bit, so I use the Incra micro-adjust feature to center the bit exactly in the hole.
	With the fence locked in the new center position, I move the  DOVN template (top) so that the recommended position is under the cursor. In this case, the template detail recommends "10A".
Now this step is not an Incra step but one I developed for making great dovetails in plywood and other woods that want to tearout. I am using a tenon marker to make a slight cut at the dovetail height. I do this on all the sides.    If you want to see all the procedures that I use for making dovetails in "cheap" wood, click here:  "Making Perfect Dovetails in Less Than Perfect Wood".
	The first step in actually cutting the dovetails is to rabbet the back of the side pieces. I have adjusted the fence so that 1/2 of the dovetail bit is revealed. That will be the depth of this cut. A push sled makes the cut accurate and safe.
I am cutting all the template's "A" positions. Note that there is a lot of tearout. The front and back pieces are scrap boards. They minimize the amount of tearout on the inner two boards, which are my sides.
	I now make the "B" cuts on the fronts and backs of each drawer. I have set the Incra Stop to be about 1/16" past the router bit. I will test fit this and adjust this depth accordingly.
All the dovetails are made and fit well, so I move the Incra TS III back to the table saw position. It is time to cut the dados for the bottom ply.
	I have installed my stacked dado cutters with just the two outside blades. That gives me a 1/4" groove which is plenty for the 1/4" plywood I will be using. This ply actually is slightly thinner so the bottom will float nicely.
I dry fit one drawer so that I can measure for the bottom. I want to allow for the dado, but not make it too tight.
	The Exaktor sliding table   makes it easy to get square, accurate cuts.
I brush carpenter's glue into the dovetail surface. It is a great joint for glue surface, so I take time to brush it thoroughly over the pins.
	I check for square and use the brad nailer to pin the joints. The brads won't show since the drawers get a false front added later. With the joint pinned, no clamping is necessary.
It is nice to have the drawers done — and fitting so well. Next, I will install the slides, add the drawer fronts, and hang the doors.