SuperStation Project - Standing Bar  - "The Rails and Stiles"

	I cut the cope ends of all the rail and stile pieces that will be fit into rail profiles. My right hand controls the cut by keeping the push sled against the fence. I have attached a new piece of MDF to the push sled so that the sled could serve as a backer board. This minimizes tearout of the cross grain of the rails.    My left hand uses a push pad to keep the workpiece flat on the table and against the fence. This cutting went very smoothly and safely.
Now I install the rail profile (stick) bit. All that I need to do is to insert it fully so that the bit bottoms out on the O-rings in the router collet. The height adjustment shouldn't be required.
	The rails and stiles get profiles cut on one or both sides depending on where they fit in the final assembly. Again, I use the push block to keep the piece firm n the table and against the fence.
The SuperStation is really proving to be a very handy one-stop-does-it-all place.
	Here comes the exciting part — fitting it all together. And here also comes the part which I mentioned at the start of this story — a major goof. I think the goof is in the Plans.    The rail and stile assembly didn't fit exactly right. It took lots of measurements and checking to determine that all the parts were exactly dimensioned per the plan.
The error came in the difference of the rail and stile profiles. In adding up the Rockler Plan dimensions, it became apparent that they allowed 1/2" for the rail/stile profiles. The CMT set allows 7/16". You wouldn't think that this would make a big difference, but the 1/16" "error" adds up. Look closely, and you can see the gap...too much for wood filler and way too much to be proud of.    So whose fault is it? The Plan's for not stating somewhere that their rail/style profile set was 1/2". Or  mine, for not adding up the dimensions before cutting. What do you think?
	The only solution was to start in one corner and trim each and every piece to fit the assembly. Of course, after each length was trimmed, I had to re-run a new cope end.    Needless to say, my view of using Plans to make projects easy, took on a new bias. Here, I am not threatening my trusty sidekick — never! Just shouting for joy after hours of finicky correction.
With the frame fitted but not glued, I lay the panels in their position. I trimmed each panel down a hair to fit in the opening and to have 1/8" space to float in the groove.    It is time to cut the raised panel shape on the panels.
	The CMT raised panel cutters are two cutters in one. The large cutter cuts the front face of the panel, and the smaller cutter profiles the back side. This gives you a perfect tenon on the panel to fit into the groove.    This bit comes with a final diameter bearing which is installed which can be replaced with the large bearing for making the first cut. Rather than to use it, I will use the fence to make a  number of progressive cuts.    This is one big bit and even on this relatively soft poplar, I feel more comfortable taking a number of passes. I also end up with a better finished profile.
I adjust the height using a piece of the cope profile. The tongue of the panel should be the same as the tongue of the cope. This makes setting this cutter very quick and positive. And, yes, I will run a sample.
	I have installed my fence for this bit and am making the first pass on a sample board. As always, I cut the end grain and then the side. This first pass is a shallow pass. I will move the fence slightly and making another pass in order to test the sample.
The sample is in the groove and I have rested a straight edge over the corner. It is close but definitely there is a gap. What would you do? Would you let it go and cut all the panels?