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The bar
top is double thickness 3/4" ply with a cut-out where the sink would be placed. While
we opted not to install a sink, we did want to have the cut out so that the
"bartender" could have access to a work area.
The plans call for the inset to be 11 3/4" from the edge. You can
see that I have made the rip cut to my lines. I apologize for not having a picture of that
cut. It was made at the table saw with the fence set at that width. With the saw turned
on, I elevated the blade to penetrate the board and made the desired rip. Then, I lowered
the blade and turned off the saw.
Now I am using my small circular saw to cut the cross cuts to the marks I
have drawn.
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I use my saber saw with a
fine blade to make the radius cut.
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I use a drum sander in my
drill to smooth out the radius. While I am making the heavy top of double thickness
3/4" ply, I work first on the top piece. Once this is right, I will use it as a
template to route the lower piece.
By the way, Porter Cable has just come out with a portable orbital spindle
sander — now that would really work well here. Maybe it can be a Christmas present to
me.
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I have clamped
the lower, rough cut board on top of the finished board. With the pattern bearing riding
on the lower board, I route the upper board to match exactly.
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Now, I have inverted
the whole stack and have spread carpenter's glue in between the two layers. I am
using 1 1/4" narrow crown staples, tacked from the underside, to secure the two
boards. This is one heavy top that isn't going to ever feel "flimsy." [Note, I
am shooting obliquely since I do not want any of the staples to penetrate the top surface.
They are 1/4" shorter than the thickness, but I do not want to take any chances at
this point.]
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I use the small edging iron
to apply 1 1/2" width white oak veneer tape.
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As I have said
before, it is very important to press the hot veneer into the edge as the tape cools. Here
I am using a veneer roller, but a block of wood or head of a wood mallet works just as
well.
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This little edge veneer
trimmer works very well on the straight edges. When it came to the curved sections, I used
a sharp blade in a utility knife. The trick is to let the veneer cool totally before
trying to trim it. I also, prefer to trim the veneer proud, so that I can finish the job
with a block plane. If you try to trim it flush, you can catch the grain and have tearout.
It is better to go cautiously slow at this point.
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A few light passes with a
very sharp (scary sharp*) block plane, makes the veneered edge transparent. The edge
closest to the camera is the side. This two board edge will be covered by the bar rail.
[ * Note: scary sharp is a method of sharpening blades and flattening plane
soles using very fine sandpaper - to 2000 grit. I first tried it on this inexpensive
Stanley block plane and have been amazed at what a different tool it is. I will
cover the scary sharp method sometime in the future.]
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Well, the edging is done.
When Sal, who has been helping and taking pictures, says: "it looks like a solid
piece of heavy oak", I knew that it was a good edging job. He has a very critical
eye.
Edge veneering is easy, but only if you do not try to rush it. Trust me on
this. I have rushed it in the past, and it always takes longer in the long run.
Well, I am ready to cut the bar rail stock that I shaped last time. That's
next.
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