SuperStation Project - Standing Bar  - "Making the Drawers"

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  Well, I found another problem with the plans. As you may have noticed in the last picture, the drawer height is close to the height of the opening. Slides require at least 3/4" clearance for the drawer to be added or removed. I usually allow a full inch. So, back to the table saw to trim off the difference.

  I couldn't find 12" ball bearing slides that I would normally use, so I mounted these inexpensive slides. They should work fine.

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  I decided to use wood pulls for the drawers. Here, I am lining up my jig with the centerline of the drawer front.

    I have installed a 3/4" mortising bit and a 1" guide bushing. This is the bit/guide combination that I used when I created the template. I set the depth stop to allow for a depth of cut of 3/8".

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    It takes two seconds to make the cut.

   Because the cut is enclosed, there is no room for the wood chips to escape. It is necessary to vacuum after the first cut and then make a final pass.
  

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    The wooden drawer pull fits snugly in the mortise. I use carpenter's glue and then shoot one small brad where my index finger is. The brad holds the pull in place while the glue dries.

   I have positioned the drawer fronts by eye and am using a couple of spring clamps to hold them in place.

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   I use two screws to attach the fronts from inside the drawer.

   The drawer fronts are looking good, so it is time to hang the two doors.

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  I am using European style hardware that requires a 35mm hole. The hinges came with a template which I use to locate the hole. I have set the depth stop to give me the right depth.

   I use the square to keep the hinge aligned as I add  the two mounting screws.

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   I use the hinge's other template to mark the position for the screws of the adapter plate.

   I screw the plate in position.

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   These hinges are easy to use. Now that the hardware is mounted, the two pieces fit together well. A simple push, and the door hinge locks in place.

  Rather than to use the paper template for the bottom hinge, I install the adapter plate on the hinge. Then, holding the door, I can screw the plate in position.

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   You are right. I had already mounted the fronts to the drawer, but I removed them so that the door could be mounted a bit higher. Here, I am using a  piece of 1/4" plywood to serve as a spacer to remount the drawer fronts.

   I have added the panels to the case. A clamp holds them in place.

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   From the inside, I use a couple of screws per panel to fasten the panels to the case. This unit is very heavy, so it will be easier to disassemble and move. The final arrangement will be in three parts: 1) the case, 2) the outside panels, and 3) the top assembly.
   I haven't done the top yet, but it promises to be very heavy, as well. I will do that next and will put it on line next week. The Bar is looking good. Next week, I should be able to finish it.

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