Making a Bench Top Router Table the Easy Way

When I made my version of Marc Sommerfeld's router table, I received some letters of "criticism"— basically asking "...how can you do all that router work to make the table, if the table wasn't made yet?"    That's a good point — a very good point. So when Beth wanted to give her husband a router table for his birthday, she asked my help and I said "Yes, let's make the bench top version without using a shop full of tools — at least not one of my router tables"
	Beth ordered Marc's version of the router table top and fence. She also ordered the Hitachi 12V, a bent wrench and a RouterRaizer™.  Do I have her trained right, or what?    She and Robin are away for some days, so I decided to put it together and have Sal shoot the step-by-step — and I will not use my own router table to make the cabinet for this one.
Instead of a full cabinet, Beth's husband wants a small cabinet that he can clamp to a Work-Mate or a pair of saw horses.    I figure that I can make a rather simple box with an open front. It should be 13" high since that is what the router requires, and it should have a lip on the bottom so that it can be clamped easily.    Well, I am getting ahead of myself. That is Robin's cabinet, but there are a lot of things to do before I got to that point.
	The first thing to do is to remove the sub-base from the brand new Hitachi M12V router. I will save these machine screws in a spare parts box. I will have to go to the hardware store for some longer screws to hold the router securely on the thicker router table.
I use masking tape to cover the router's vent holes. I do not want any drillings or filings to find their way inside the motor.
	The arrows point to the two "ears" that are a part of the Hitachi base plate. They are used to secure the guide bushings. I will remove these so that the router, when table mounted, can use the wider bits — particularly the panel raising bits.    If Robin ever wants to remove the router and use it manually with guide bushings, he can purchase a universal baseplate that will accept standard guide bushings.
Admittedly, it is always an anxious moment for me to "cut up" a beautiful tool. This step couldn't be easier. I have mounted a metal cutting blade in my saber saw, and I just guide it along the molded base. If you look at the ears in the picture above, you can see that the ears are well outlined and thinner than the base. This makes removing them very easy and risk free.
	Next, I remove two screws and add the handles to the spare parts box.
This is the hardest task in converting this router to the table. I am drilling a 1/4" hole in the shaft lock tab.  I don't know of any better way to hold the router but to gingerly clamp it to a horse.
	Even with it clamped, a hand underneath gives most of the support to the router during the operation. I have positioned a block of wood so that the shaft lock doesn't move.    It is difficult, but I was able to use a centerpunch to make a start hole before drilling. I ended up with a 1/4" drill but used thinner drills for starter holes.    Take the drilling operation slow and be sure to get the hole as centered on the tab as is possible.
The operation was a success. I will add the 1/4" rod at the very last — after the router and top is secure in the cabinet.    With that done, I can remove the blue masking tape.