Project - "Setting Up to Make the First Cut"

	Using the Workmate isn't "elegant",  but it will work well until the cabinet is completed. I do like this idea of Marc's to make a temporary base. It puts the new system into use quicker.  The raised panel cabinet is great practice for the new table and the CMT/Sommerfeld Raised Panel Set.
Well, I am itchy to start cutting wood. I am going to start by cutting the end, cope cuts on each of the rails. I am using the CMT/Sommerfeld Raised Panel Bit Set.    Here is the cope cutter that I want to start with. It is the one with the bearing in the center.
	If you followed my earlier story of Marc and his router methods, you will know that he inserts O-rings into the base of the collet. I use two 1/2" O-rings that are available in plumbing supplies or at home centers.    They keep the router bit from "bottoming out" and potentially locking in the collet.
You can see the bent wrench. It works as well on this new table as it ever has. It worked so well that I neglected to shoot any picture — I am slipping.       I am installing one of the table inserts.
	I want to set the height of the bit so that the top edge has about a 1/8" lip. The "top" edge of the final cut is really at the bottom here, since the router bit is upside down. I use a Formica sample chip as a 1/8" measurement guide. It isn't exactly 1/8" but is close enough, and the samples are so handy to use about the shop.
Here, you can see why the orientation of the router is so important. It is easy for me to reach in and have both the adjustment height knob (left arrow) and the locking lever (right arrow) in my grasp.
	I purposely hang the cord end on the shaft lock rod. This helps me remember two things: 1) to unplug the router to change bits; and 2) to be sure to pull the shaft lock rod out (unlock) before I plug the cord back into the electrical box. The cord with the red tag is for the vacuum cleaner.
Well, I am ready to make the first cut. The cut, in this case, will be in the router fence insert. Marc details the specific step-by-step in his video.  I will repeat them here.
	First, adjust the speed to the slowest setting.
Turn the router on and ease the fence into the router bit. The bit cuts the HDPE plastic very smoothly — like butter.    When the insert reaches the bearing, turn the router off.
	Now, trace the outline of the top nut shaft and the center bearing area.
Remove the insert and move to the bandsaw to cut the outline. It doesn't have to be exact. I find that leaving 1/8" outside the line will still give plenty of "zero clearance" effect.
	Now, return the insert to the fence and slowly make the rest of the cut.
These next few steps are of my thinking. I want a zero clearance insert that does NOT have a chance to bind the router bit. For that reason, I add a little "extra clearance."    The Sommerfeld fence allows this to be done very easily. I loosen the four hand nuts holding the fences and move them left -to-right slightly. There is about 1/8" total movement possible.    I then make another cut. This gives me a slightly widened profile in the insert.
	And here is my "widened" insert. It still provides almost zero clearance without the risk of binding the cutter.    I use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove any "fuzz" from the front and back surfaces.
The insert is back in place and I have centered the insert and fences over the bit. I always turn the bit by hand just to double check that it does not rub on anything.    Now, I am adjusting the fence depth to align with the pattern bearing.    I am ready to start cutting wood.