Safety and the Table Saw - "The Blade and Alignment"

	For many years, I used a high priced combination blade on my saw. It did everything "just fine."    When I had to resaw some 2" thick cherry and oak, I realized that my "best" blade wasn't up to the job.    That's when I researched rip blades. I was surprised to learn that less is better — teeth, that is. My CMT rip blade (on saw) has only 24 teeth, and they are a special "anti-kickback" design.    It rips even the heaviest stock like it is butter.
The CMT general, combination blade has  50 teeth and it seems to cut as well or better than my old, faithful 80 tooth blade.    The Teflon coating does work. I know my blades stay cleaner. I still clean them off — usually once a week. The orange part rarely needs it, but the little sides of the carbide, and the face of the teeth, is where any burned sap builds up. Cleaning the blade often, keeps it purring.
	Don't read this picture incorrectly. I do NOT believe in sharpening my own blades. That is for the pro shops. I do use a fine diamond file to remove any real stubborn burnt-on pitch from the non-cutting edges of the blade. The cleaner gets about 95% of it. This file gets the rest.
ALIGNMENT:    I don't think there is anything more important than alignment. In the past 12 years, I have used about 6 different alignment methods. Some worked great, and some not so great.    Without naming names, I will say, that the most expensive alignment tool, is not necessarily the best.    I will also say that alignment isn't just checking two measurements, but quite a few.    I will cover only two here: 1) blade to miter slot and 2) miter slot to fence. I do believe these are the most important and should be checked quite regularly.
	I have taken the blade off and have installed the "MasterPlate" in its place. There is a time when you want to measure the blade  but not now. The plate is a very flat 6" by 10" 1/4"-thick plate of steel with several holes to accommodate most table saw arbors.    With it mounted securely, I can get a very smooth reading all the way along the plate. For my cabinet saw, I loosen the 4 bolts anchoring the heavy table top to make adjustments.
Next, I align the fence to the miter slot. You can make it exactly parallel, but I add 3 to 5 thousandths of an inch to the outfeed end. This minute "error" reduces squeezing the stock after the blade and therefore, reduces chance of kickback.
	The TS-III fence is very easy to align — much easier than I thought it would be. I have been used to fence systems with adjustment screws.    In the case of the Incra system, you loosen 6 screws and adjust the fence. I was delighted to find that I could set the fence accurately, and that it would hold that position while I fastened down the screws.
So what am I doing using my hands to check the alignment? Actually, just that. I have just aligned the fence accurately using the SuperBar and the miter slot.    I often move the whole fence to the router position and then back. I have found that the Incra TS-III System holds its position very well. But, I still do a quick run of my fingers against the fence and in the miter slot.    Try it! You shouldn't set your fence this way, but you will feel any slight variation — like if you didn't fully come back against the stops or if you didn't lock down the fence. As I say, try it and see for yourself.
	There are many more steps to total alignment. I have touched on only these two basics here.  I will cover the total alignment using the  MasterPlate and the SuperBar next week.