Dovetail Jig "Shoot Out"

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   First thing on my agenda today is to break apart the first section where I added keys to a butt joint. It might look ok with some woods, but the Birdseye maple is too figured to use a butt joint.
   I am setting up the Incra 5000 for 45o cuts. The dust is a giveaway that I haven't used the 45o setup for a long time, but it is worth the changeover. I want crisp and exact 45o cuts.
  

   The setup may have taken 15 minutes but the miter cutting is now very accurate and safe using the Incra 5000 sled.

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   After the miter joints are cut, I double check for the accuracy of the cuts — they are dead on.

  I went through every clamp I had trying to come up with a good way to hold the corner for cutting the keys. I decided to try using nylon filament strapping tape. It is amazing how easy it is to put a corner together with it. The question will be, will it hold the corner together for the routing operation.

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    After a lot of trial and error, this is what worked for me. The clamps at the base are simply to hold the side pieces vertical and locked to the table. Can you see how I clamped the Kehoe jig to the corner?

    I used the spring clamps that I had purchased for the serving tray project. Four of the clips hold the jig securely at the corner. They didn't work too well with the trays, but they are outstanding here.

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    It took only a few minutes to rout the key slots in each of the 4 corners. Now I have them joined by tape while I cut the keys.

     I don't know the exact angle of the dovetail bit I am using. It looks like 8o or 9o so I have tilted the blade to 9o and will make a cut. I was lucky. That angle is exactly right so it is time to cut a dozen of the keys. I am using cocobola. It should give me a strong wedge and when finished, a nice contrasting key.

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   I am fitting the keys to the slots. If one is too  tight or too loose, I want to know it now before I start gluing.

    I have opened the three sides. They are still taped. In fact, the tape allows me to hinge open the assembly and "roll" it back up when ready to clamp.

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   The mitered corners with their routed keyways offer a great amount of gluing surface. I make use of it all.

   With the 3 sides "rolled up", I now tap the wedges in place. I want them to be all the way in the slot but not so tight that all the glue is squeezed out. The tack hammer keeps me from over doing it.

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