 |
In all the years that I
have used the tilting router table, the one joint that proved most unique is the
dovetailed corner post — that is my name for it. The instruction booklet calls it the
locking dovetail corner. Both names are good. It not only is a strong way to join
legs and aprons, it is a joint that only can be done on this table.
|
I start by
laying out the pieces. I have a turned leg that I purchased from a local supplier. It is
pine and will serve for this demonstration.
|
 |
 |
The square of the leg is 2" and I want to use aprons that are of
3/4" stock — and I want to set back the apron with a 1/8" reveal. That
pretty much is what I am drawing.
|
Here is my drawing.
You can see the 1/8" reveal clearly in this sketch. I have two router bits out. I
want to find a bit that will cut a nice pin but not take too much wood away. I have made
sliding dovetail joints that look great, but the narrow part of the tail is narrower and
weaker than I wanted. On the other extreme, I don't want one so large as to have too large
a socket — the one in place in this photo is just that. It is a 3/4" dovetail
bit and the socket in the leg would have only the 1/8" reveal for the wall. I will
use the 5/8" dovetail bit.
|
 |
 |
The diagonal brace will be
at 45o to the sides and will have a dovetail that is 45o to the
brace and 90o to the side. I am drawing it in but only for reference. Actual
placement of this piece will follow the joinery of the leg and aprons. Once they are done,
it will be easier to square the corner and then, add this dovetailed cross brace.
|
These are the pieces.
I haven't done anything to them yet except to lay them out and mark how they will be
placed.
|
 |
 |
I mark the bottoms and
insides of the aprons and the two inside corners of the leg.
|
I install the 5/8"
dovetail bit. I am using the bent wrench, but with this table, I could also tilt the top
to 90o and use the router's flat wrench.
|
 |
 |
I start positioning the
router bit by aligning the centerpoint of the bit (there is a slight dimple in the center)
with the fence.
|
Next, I measure the
thickness of the apron — it is 3/4" exactly. That is 12/16's and since I want to
move the center of the bit to be at the center of the board, I will move
the crossfeed crank one half the thickness of this board, or 6/16's distance. Since each
turn of the crossfeed crank is 1/16", 6 turns will place the bit it the center line
of the board.
|
 |
 |
That is what I do.
When this is done, the dovetail bit should be aligned with the center of this board. I
will be cutting the socket in the leg, but that socket is for this board.
Since I want the side to be inset further, for a 1/8" reveal, or
set-back, I crank an additional two turns. Once you get used to the crossfeed and how it
works, it can make joinery, and router table work of all sorts, easier and more accurate.
|