With the cases done, I can
start the face frames. I have ripped poplar stock to 2" width and have cut them to
the various lengths for the three cabinets. Here I am just dry fitting to double check the
measurements.
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Just as with the case pieces, I have drilled pocket holes in the ends of each
of the rails. I am applying yellow carpenter's glue to the ends.
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A part of the Kreg
Pocket Hole system is this vise grip. It has a wide plate that goes on the face side. I
adjust the seam edges by feel as I place the clamp. Once tightened, the bottom, face, side
is aligned.
Note that the screws are placed in the holes by hand. This is a preferred
method over placing the screw on the bit and finding the hole. If you do the latter, there
is a chance that the screw will start in a place other than the hole and cause a real
problem.
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Since this is poplar, I am using the standard 1 1/4" screws.
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I test fit the final
frame.
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I
have completed all the frames and am using 1½" finish nails and glue to attach them
securely to the cases.
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I am taking very
precise measurements of all the openings. It is time now to make the doors.
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This is the first time that
I have been able to use a new software program that I just loaded on my computer. It is
called "Raised Panel Doors." It is a very low cost ($30) program. It allows you
to input all the variables of the overlay, the stock, the bit set you are using, etc.
Frankly, I have always made doors by just measuring and calculating — it
worked for me with an occasional error. But I wanted to give this program a try. I did and
it is wonderful! [Click
here for the demo site.]
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I used to follow the
guidelines in the CMT catalog (left). They are well written and make the math as simple as
possible. The new program makes it even simpler. Once you have input the two measurements
for each opening, you can print out a sheet (right) with every element detailed exactly.
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