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To start the door making
process, I first take a scrap of poplar and screw a pushblock onto it. That will give me 4
fresh and square edges. [It also gives me reason to keep all those scraps — I hate to
throw them out.]
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I have used
the CMT Sommerfeld Cabinet Making Set many times before. This is a version of it and
is new from CMT. It is the same but with ogee shapes. This is particularly evident in the
panel raising cutter.
As always. I start with the end coping bit — that is the one with the
bearing in the center.
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I seat it fully and use the bent wrench to lock it down.
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The first, and only,
height measurement, is this one. I have placed a ruler across the plate and just under the
first lip of the cutter. I want that lip to be 1/8" up from the face. If I lower the
bit to almost touch this rule, I will have that 1/8" set.
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I install the fence insert
that I have used for the earlier set — it should work fine. After locking the insert
in place, I turn on the router and carefully bring the fence forward over the bit. That
practice ensures that the fence will fit the bit without binding.
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I am making a test
cut on the fresh push pad. The inset is a close up of a finished piece. I am pointing at
that all important 1/8"
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It
doesn't take long to cope all the ends of the rails.
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It takes only a
minute to install the profiling cutter. This is part of a matched set, so I should be able
to use this setup without making a test cut.
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I switch fence
inserts to one for the profiling bit. Again, after locking it in place, I turn the router
on and bring the fence slowly forward.
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Here is a great tip courtesy
of Marc Sommerfeld. It is from his video "Arched Raised Panel Doors Made Easy."
Here is his procedure. First, I use this profiling bit to cut a groove the entire length
of one of the sides of the pushblock. Next, I slip a rail that is to be profiled into the
pushblock's groove. Remember, these rail ends were just shaped with the cope bit. It is
this end joint that fits the pushblock exactly.
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Next, I place both
against the fence and with my left hand, I use another pushblock to keep the rail flat on
the table and against the fence. My right hand is on the handle of the pushblock and is
guiding the assembly through the cutters.
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Not only is this a very safe
way to make the cut of these small rails, it prevents any tearout at the end of the cut.
These finished rails are proof.
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With the rails done, I make
the profiling cut on the stiles. They are simple to make.
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