Project - "Kelly's Breakfast Room Corner Cabinet."

I love to start a new project. Another daughter of Sal's, Kelly, needs a corner cabinet for a breakfast room. I will make it of poplar, and Sal will paint it white. There will be four doors which will be raised panel — it should be easy to do. Our challenge is to 1) do it faster (after all we are getting pretty experienced) and 2) reduce mistakes.
	I had my local lumberyard deliver a bunch of 1 X 6 and 1 X 8 poplar. They were in 12' and 14' lengths so I wanted to use the trim saw to shorten them and make them easier for me to handle.
The poplar was very good but not ready to be glued up without jointing. I used the JointAbility to prepare the edges for gluing. Once again, I find that this simple tool works very well for edge jointing. I simply positioned each board so that 1/16" or so was visible and made one pass with the router. It took about 10 minutes for all the edges.
	I spread glue over the new edge.
The edges joined seamlessly.
	After measuring the space, we decided that we would build a cabinet that was 22" wide on both sides. I have made a very crude sketch (lower left) but use the layout board to do a full scale plan. This allows me to detail how each corner will be made. You can see that I have sketched the corner and center stile details. I am now sketching the 3/8" overlap and partial inset doors.
I will use a speed square to help make the cuts.
	First I measure where I want to cut. Then I lay a 1 1/8" guide at the mark. This guide is the exact offset required for this trim saw.  Then I place the edge clamp next to the guide and use the speed square for squaring that up.
I make the cut. I keep a clean carbide blade on this saw so my cuts are very clean. The only time they aren't is when I stray from the straight edge — so I try to keep my attention where it should be. I also "pre-plan" where the waste end will fall. I added a roller stand at that end so that the piece is almost balanced.  I love my cabinet saw, but this is a very easy way to get started.
	I could have made the long 45o bevel cut with the trim saw, but wanted to use the table saw to make another point. I  have a right tilt saw which can cause problems when ripping at a bevel such as this. If the board lifts up at all, the possibility of kickback increases. The solution is, don't let the board lift up. My hand will keep pressure on the board as my other hand feeds the board. My body is also on the other side of the fence — not in direct line with the board. Lastly, I am using the CMT Rip Blade which has anti-kickback design — and it is clean and sharp. The cuts went well.