Well, this is the last project for the new addition. I wanted to design and make a mirror that is a little different than the usual. I don't know if it is "Cape Cod," but I plan to make one with a Chippendale Mirror outline on the top. [I refer to Thomas Chippendale, not the male dancers.]

wpe71.jpg (13471 bytes)
wpe79.jpg (13324 bytes)

   The idea of the Chippendale style mirror frame is one I copied from an on-line friend. If copying is the sincerest form of flattery, then "Thanks a bunch C. John."
   The idea came from him, but I have, amongst my many templates, two outlines of Chippendale mirrors I have made over the last 40 years. I copied them both from the Williamsburg catalog. The one in my hand is one that I first made for my wife in 1965 — can you believe that I could be that old. The fancier one I made when I got the Excalibur scroll saw. I wanted to really test that jewel of a machine on Birdseye Maple with that more intricate design. It did great.

     I have cut a piece of 1/2" Baltic birch to the width I want. The arrow is at the mid-point. You can see that the line representing the mid-point of the mirror is a long way away. I will have to "stretch" the shape quite a bit.
   I do know that I want the top corners to be pretty much the same as in the real mirror.

wpe7B.jpg (10550 bytes)
wpe7C.jpg (10677 bytes)

   I also want to keep the center section pretty much the same.

    To connect the two areas, I tried a number of things including doubling up a couple of the swirls, but I finally opted to keep it simple and simply run a gentle curve between the two original elements.
   With one side done, I will make a paper template and flip it to do the mirror image of it on the right hand side.

wpe7D.jpg (9757 bytes)
wpe7E.jpg (12086 bytes)

   I am starting the cut. I have installed the "coping blade" in the saber saw. It is narrow and has 11 teeth per inch. It is designed for fine scrollwork like this.
   And more importantly, it gives me a pretty good cut. I am taking my time and either staying on the line or a little outside of it.

    I did one half with the saber saw. On the mirror image, I set up the scroll saw with a new blade and used it.
   The Excalibur 30" scroll saw is a marvelous machine, but if you don't have a scroll saw, you can make these cuts with the saber saw, just as I did the first half.

wpe7F.jpg (12198 bytes)
wpe80.jpg (10298 bytes)

    I had to do about 5 minutes more rasping and sanding on the saber saw side, but all in all, both methods worked fine.

   The way I mounted the mirror was to use a tube of mirror adhesive. I applied "blobs" to the back of the mirror and positioned it on the wall. I used mirror clips to hold the glass in position until the adhesive had set.
   Twenty-four hours later, I removed the clips and fastened the frame material around the glass. The scrolled top slid into dados I had cut in the upper section of the moldings.
  

wpe6C.jpg (8249 bytes)
wpe6E.jpg (7518 bytes)

    On the Chippendale mirrors I have made, I have always shaped the mahogany or maple frame stock with a series of router profile cuts.  For this mirror, I couldn't resist using a piece of "decorative molding" that was at Home Depot — about $10 gave me enough for this mirror. It has a lot of nice detail that really helps the overall look.

   One last comment about this project — under the heading of "What I would  do different next time." Look closely at the drawer pulls. They fit the top and bottom drawers very well, but are a little high for the center raised panel. I think that in the future, I will get the hardware early in the planning stages so that I do not make this minor error again.

wpe6F.jpg (9529 bytes)
wpe70.jpg (13647 bytes)

   This "scrapbook view" really didn't work. There were just too many lines to unsquiggle, but I was trying to give you an overall view of the area. I couldn't back up enough, so this is the best I could do.
   The total bathroom project was a great undertaking and at times I really wish that I had let the professionals finish it — particularly in the tiling of the floor — but with Sal's help, we got it all done and looks much better than this composite shows. Now, back to the shop.

Main Menu -- and now available in  PDF File

Previous Page