The doors are full
inset (i.e. the front will be flush with the frame.) Since I am adding them on the
outside of the case, I must add some filler strips to the case. They are 1½"
wide.
Since I am fastening these to melamine surfaces, I use the Roo Clear Glue.
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Now I am adding some
melamine blocks so that I can mount the hinge adapter plate. This block is even with the
vertical facing strip. I am using 1¼" narrow crown staples.
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I have used
the template that is supplied with the hinges to locate where I should drill the 35mm
hole. I have set the drill press' depth stop to ½". You can see that the other end
of the door is resting on a roller stand.
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With the cup of the
hinge in the hole, I use a square to line up the hinge and drill a small pilot hole. You
can see that it has been a whole week, and I haven't yet misplaced my Jack Rabbit™
drill/driver set. Actually, this is the "deluxe set." I liked how it worked so
well, I decided that it would fit my needs better. It has drill sizes for #6, #8, and #10
screws. It also has counter sink sizes of 3/8" and 1/2" — both are very
useful since I have plug cutters in both sizes.
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It definitely is
easier to quick change from a drill to screw driver head than to change drills. The
JackRabbit sets can be seen and purchased at www.jackrabbittool.com
The Deluxe Set is also available at McFeelys - it is not yet on their
website, so you will have to call their toll-free number: 800-443-7937.
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This one screw locks the
hinge in place. There are adjustments in three planes. I will do simple adjustments here
and then take off the doors so that the cabinets will be more manageable to move and
mount.
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Before I move on, let
me explain one cute little extra of the JackRabbit. The brass ring slips over the
screwdriver bit. It is constructed with several rare earth magnets inside. It gives extra
holding power to the screwdriver. As the picture shows, it holds screws securely so that
you can start them in holes without them dropping off — no matter which direction you
have to screw.
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The doors are done, Sal is
here to help, so it is time to install these cabinets in the new laundry closet. Before we
cart them over, I must cut the two in half. The cut line will not show in the final
installation.
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I had built the top hanger
board into the case so that I could fasten the case to the studs. The arrow points to a
ledger board that I mounted to the wall before hoisting the case. In this instance, I will
leave this board as part of the installation.
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I use a clamp to hold the
units together while I drill holes for some cabinet studs. I have inserted a picture of
a connector bolt. I am installing one with white plastic caps that are designed for
white melamine cabinets.
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I re-attach the doors.
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The cabinets are hung. The
doors adjusted. All we have left to do is to add a wire shelf. Sal is screwing in the last
anchor bolt.
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This picture is weeks later
after the floor, cabinets, trim and all are installed. I have hooked up the programmable
control for the heating mat that we laid in the floor. It is a very simple installation
thanks to the WarmlyYours people. There are 4 lead wires that they have stripped and
marked with the exact wire that should be connected to it. It worked correctly the first
time. [This may be a repeat of an earlier page.]
With this installed, the new bathroom is almost done. I still have to install
the mirror on the back wall and create a "Chippendale" style frame for it.
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