Beth and
I have completed the Jessem Mite-R-Slide installation. Now she wants to "see it
work." I have pulled out one of my favorite sets of bits, the CMT Sommerfeld Junior
Raised Panel Set. I have also cut several pieces of 1/2" walnut for Beth to make one
frame.
I have picked this set mainly because it is a great test of holding the work
piece solidly when cutting. I have made a number of jigs to do this. It will be
interesting to see how well this new Jessem Mite-R-Slide will do the job.
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Beth has raised the
PorterCable 7518 that is installed in the Jessem Mast-R-Lift. To change bits easily, she
has cranked the lift all the way up. Beth is inserting the coping bit into the router
until it is seated. There is an O-ring in the base of the collet to keep the bit from
bottoming out.
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After firmly tightening the
collet, Beth places an insert ring into position and locks it.
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Beth is setting the height
of the bit. The drawing in the inset shows that she wants to center the mortise groove in
the 1/2" thick piece of wood.
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She adjusts the
fences so that they are about 1/8" from the bit cutters. She rotates the bit manually
to ensure that there is clearance.
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With a small speed square
across the bearing, she adjusts the fence until it is in line with the pattern bearing.
She once again checks that the bit can rotate without touching either side. She is ready
to make her cut.
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This is the proof of the
pudding. The slide works smoothly and safely. One hand is on the firm handle, the other on
her workpiece. The white piece of the Mite-R-Fence can be replaced easily, so for now, I
am using it as a backer board. [* see photo at bottom of page.]
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She takes a close look at
the coped end of the rail. It is machined very smoothly with negligible tearout.
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With all her rails shaped,
she has cranked the router bit all the way up (zero position) and jots down the exact
number of turns and the dial indication. She will use this to lower the profile bit to the
same position. The white laminate top of the router table can take these jottings without
any permanent marring.
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Once she has changed bits,
she only has to crank back the same number of turns. This is a matched set, so she should
be able to go ahead and make her cuts.
For the profile cuts, she does not use the miter gauge. The arrow shows how
it is easily swung over the fence. What you do not see is that there are some notches for
the assembly to fit in and keep the miter gauge from moving. Everything about the
Mite-R-Slide has been very well thought out.
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The profile cuts of the
shorter rails are cut the same way except that the push block has the profile shape on its
front edge. This way, it mates exactly with the cope cut of the rail ends. By mating the
two, there is no tearout at the end of the cut.
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The bottom line: a
perfect frame with tight joints, totally aligned profiles and sharp corners. This is
Beth's first such frame. I have done many. It is nice having the Jessem Mite-R-Slide work
so well.
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It is not the sharpest picture,
but I think it shows the nice, tight corner I was talking about. There is the slightest of
"feathers" that a light sanding will take care of.
Beth asked: "What can we do with this?" I said: "It is the
start of a great jewelry box." Next week, maybe we can start on the base.
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* The picture above of Beth
making the cut caused me to think about ways to do the job safer and easier. At
left is the result of my trying every hold down available to me. I have added this
hold-down with just enough downward pressure to start to flex the fingers. The Mite-R-Slide
is heavy enough to keep objects down. In use, I place the workpiece under the fingers by
slightly lifting the whole Mite-R-Slide fence up. With the wood positioned against both
fences, I lower the Mite-R-Slide and make the cut. My pressure on the large red handle
pushes the workpiece through the cutter at the same time as keeping the workpiece in
place. Sometimes, simple is best.
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