New Product Review   —  "Jessem/Milwaukee Router Table Motor Unit"

I am switching bits. This is the bit for cutting the profile on all the rail and stile edges. The bearing is at the top.
	I pull the fence forward until the bearing is aligned with the fence — and I tighten the clamp.
I am using the test cut that I just made of the cope cut and am adjusting the height until the groove cutter of the bit lines up with the tongue of the sample. You can see it exactly, but your finger will be able to detect the exactly alignment much easier — or so I find.
	I first run one side of a scrap block that I will use as a push block.
And here is why. If I ran t he profile on rails that have been coped, there might be tearout if I used a straight pushblock. This way, I can connect the coped rail in the edge I just did on the pushblock and have a "custom fitting" push block.
	This is how it would look running, but I plan to use some push blocks before I actually run this.
Yes, this is a lot safer. For the actual run, I will setup feather boards in both planes.
	How sweet it is!  If you see a slight hairline gap between the two pieces that is for the sake of the photo — otherwise you couldn't see any at all.
I now install the raised panel cutter. The upper cutter is for cutting the back of the panel.
	This gives you a good clue on the positioning of the tongue. Remember this is upside down from the way we will be actually cutting.
If you look closely, I have placed a brass 1/4" space bar in the slot of the rail. With the rail upside down, I can move the brass bar towards the raised panel bit. I then can raise or lower until the brass space bar is right dab in the middle of the groove area between the two cutters. This is much easier to do than to see in this picture.
	This is too large a bit to make the cut in one pass. I like to make it in three. For the first one, I bring the fence forward until it is aligned with the back cutter.
For the second cut, I bring the fence to alignment with the bearing.
	For the third cut, I don't change the fence position. I just make the same cut again, but this time it will "clean up" the cut.
Follow those step-by-step procedures, and your raised panel doors will come out perfect — each and every time.    I know I started this section on the installation of the Jessem/Milwaukee Router Station. It worked so nicely, I just slipped into making a raised panel door. What better way to test the set-up.    There was no dust on the work table but that doesn't mean that the Stot Dust Sucker worked. Fact is, it wasn't connected.    For me to do: 1) connect the CT22 and maybe the cyclone for it 2) work on feather boards and hold-downs and 3) find the fence for creating jointed edges.

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