New Product Review   —  "Jessem/Milwaukee Router Table Motor Unit"

I am plugging the router power cord into the controller. There isn't a lot of extra cord to use so you will have to be diligent in the placing of the controller — and allow the lift to be all the way down. This seems to work well.
	The best way that I can think of testing this setup is to make a raised panel door. Do that here, and it will be a real asset to the whole Festool area of my shop.    For you non Festooleans, the procedures are the very same that you would use with your regular router table.    I have out, my CMT Cabinetmakers Set.
I will mount the coping bit first. It is t he one with the bearing in the middle of the two cutters. To me, this step-by-step procedure "is gospel" in my shop. But it isn't the only way. In fact, in the current issue of Fine Wood Working, this coping bit is run second in the series.    I have used this method for years and for a good reason — I will show you in a minute.
	I use the height adjustment knob to bring the lift up high — so it will be easier to install the bit.
The router doesn't have a shaft lock, so you have to use two wrenches. The good news is that Porter Cable bent wrenches work well — the left wrench is on the lower shaft and is held by the left hand. The right hand wrench is on the collet nut and is used to loosen or tighten the collet. The collet is deep so "bottoming out" is not a problem here.
	I bring the fence forward until it is in alignment with the router bearing.
And I lock it in place. The standard Festool clamps work just fine here for now. I will probably work on a quick release clamp for regular use.
	The arrow is pointing to the shoulder of the profile. I try to make that shoulder 1/8".  If you do that, the "rest of the shapes" will fall in place. Not exactly, but more that you might think.    This illustration is right side up and the router bit is upside down.
I use the ruler part of a combination square. It happens that this is 1/8" thick and I can easily lower the bit until it just kisses the rule. It is hard to see under the bit. This makes setting this 1/8" so much easier.
	I make a test pass on a piece of MDF I will use just for this test.
There is the 1/8" shoulder on the test cut. Fact is, it may be a bit proud. I can make a minor adjustment now or just decide this is good enough. In that there is a rabbet on the other edge, I will accept this cut.

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