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Since this is
a box joint, I adjust the router depth to a slightly greater depth than the thickness of
my stock.
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The next step is to find the center of
the stock. You start by measuring and locating the center approximately. If you
don't measure this exactly or make a mistake in your division, don't worry. In the next
step we will make it exact.
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Now with the piece clamped in the right
angle fixture, I move the fence until the piece is approximately at the center mark and
cut one side. I then turn the piece around and without changing the fence position I cut
the piece from the other side.
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Now with the piece against the fence, I
can visually line up the router bit so that it is accurately centered in the slot I just
cut. I use the micrometer adjustment to make this fine shift. I now lock the fence
carriage.
This test piece is discarded now. It should either be from a scrap piece cut
to the same width, or as Incra suggests, cut one board long; make the centering adjustment
and then trim this off to the final exact measurement. That is what I did.
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With the fence carriage locked, I move
the template so that the "center mark" is directly under the alignment line. The
long strip can be difficult to move so I used an awl to budge it. Be careful not to mar
the template or carriage.
The "center mark" can be any of the marks but there is a
recommended center given for each of the templates.
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The device is so precision that you
must look at this window and alignment line from directly above the indicator. If you are
off to one side or the other, the joint may be similarly off.
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Here I am making my first
cut. I have clamped the two end pieces together with a backer board. I used a wood clamp
to secure these pieces to the right angle fixture. The backer board is a scrap piece that
will minimize tearout.
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Here, I am continuing the cuts using
the "A" lines on the template.
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The two end pieces are done with the "A" cuts.
You can see the backer board still in place on the right angle fixture.
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I have flipped the backer board and am
placing the sides in position to receive the "B" cuts.
For accurate joints, you must:
1) clamp the material securely so it will not move; and
2) be sure the stock is firmly positioned on the table and against the
fence.
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For the outside cuts, the instructions suggest
"sneaking up" on this cut by making several light passes before the actual first
full "B" cut. This minimizes splintering of the ends.
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Several minutes have gone by and I have
flipped the sides and am finishing the "B" cuts. Assembly is just ahead.
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My first Incra Jig box joint. Not perfect but pretty good
for the first time around. I will sand the pieces flush but next time setting the router
depth more accurately will lessen the need for sanding.
I did learn by this two important things:
1) clamp the pieces securely on the fixture, and
2) slide the fixture smoothly on the fence.
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Sanded and stained and the box joint
looks real good.
This is a good joint to do first if only to get use to your Incra Jig and how
it works. The hour it took to do this first box made the making of the next joints so much
easier. I strongly recommend that all "newbies" do the same.
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