You are not confused. This
is the picture from the last page. I thought I could clamp rails in place so that I could
make the end cuts in the rails using one of the Festool Rail and Stile Sets. This worked,
and then I realized that I also need to make profile cuts on the edges of the long
directions of all the pieces. This wouldn't accomplish that task at all.
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It is a new day and I have
"slept" on the challenge overnight. Here is what I am thinking. First, I
will create a jig that will allow me to hold the narrow pieces over the edge of
the table. That way I will be able to add the router's edge guide. I am not sure that I
will use the guide, but I do want to use the chip deflector that is a part of it. You can
see in the picture above, the vacuum doesn't pick up much without something to create a
partial housing. I am getting spoiled by the Festool Vacuum.
The guide rail will be clamped so that it is even with the front edge of the
larger board which will be the jig base.
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I am removing the front
guide for the table's fence. I will slide it into the near side's extrusion. I don't need
it there, but can you think of a better and safer place to stow it?
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The right arrow is pointing
to the edge of the guide rail. It measures 0.20". I have put four sample
Formica chips together and they measure 0.18" — close enough to serve as a guide
for helping me set the starting plunge depth.
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I can use the chips to
set the depth with the router in a comfortable position. I did try to hold the aluminum
guide rail, but it was way too awkward. I will glue this pack of chips together and slip a
piece of paper in to make up the 2 hundreds I am off. Actually, any day that I can get
that close, is a very good day.
While we have this view, see how t he chip deflector encloses the cutter.
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Once I have everything set,
I do not want to change settings between pieces. The cutters are very sharp and can cut
the shape in one pass, but I want to make the first pass about 1/16" shy of the
final. I found that if I use one of those laminate samples between the guide rods and the
stops, I can adjust the cut without altering the final settings.
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I start making the jig by
ripping a 1 X 12 3/4" MDF piece so that it is about 8 1/2" wide.
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With the MDF firmly clamped to the
table, I am drilling starter holes with a 3/4" Forstner bit. I manually position the
bit in one of the table top's holes from underneath and start drilling. I do this in two
places.
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With the holes started from
underneath, I can turn the board over and complete the job. It is much easier working from
above.
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I inserted a 3/4" dowel
into the hole having applied some super quick glue to the end. Now I use a scrap of wood
to guide the saw so that I can cut it off leaving a 3/4" stub.
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I use a fine rasp to taper
the end slightly.
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Now when I invert the base,
the two positioning plugs find their holes and the board is ready to be used — locked
in place.
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This is a "peek"
from underneath the board. The block holding it up is strictly for the sake of the
picture. The dowels at each end will keep this board in place. This is crucial — I do
not want to have the saw or router bit anywhere near the metal of the front edge of the
table.
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