So this
is the stack of "furniture*" that we now have for helping us in this simplified
jig.
This is the next plank we want to resaw, so Jessica simply starts by
placing it on the worktable in the location where re-sawing is most comfortable.
Now, she stacks pieces of "furniture" alongside the mahogany and
builds up the stack until it is a as high as the mahogany.
This may take any combination of the "furniture," but she should be
able to come close to the mahogany height. She has placed a clamp over the setup to keep
the mahogany flat against the MDF.
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From a
month ago, Jessica pulls out the small adjustable square which still has the
"thirds" marking set.
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She uses a small tack hammer to tap into place a razor blade on her mark. This method
really speeds up the process and adds quite a degree of accuracy.
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She lays
the guide rails on the stack and carefully aligns the edge to the razor blades. It is so
much easier to align the edge to the blades than it is to see pencil marks.
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Before
making the cuts, she double checks to be sure the plunge setting is high enough so as not
to come in contact with the clamp.
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And she
makes the cut. By the way, she did re-install the Panther rip blade before she started
this ripping operation.
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She has
flipped the partially ripped plank over and is tapping a wood shim into the kerf to keep
it open even with the clamp in place.
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She
uses the small square to set the guide rail to the saw kerf. Accuracy is important here.
She is careful to align the guide rail with the left side of the kerf.
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She makes her mating cut. The clamp keeps the board from moving, and the shim keeps
the clamp from squeezing the kerf area. It is a very smooth second cut.
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How many
times have I said "the proof is in...." Well it is. Being able to resaw a thick
board to very useable and equal pieces is worth the weight of a bandsaw — you know
what I mean.
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