"Edge Jointing Really Rough Boards"

Say hello to Bob Marino, woodworker and Independent Sales Agent for Festool Products. He is well known on the Internet as ROBARLMAR@aol.com. He had read of my method of using the Festool plunge saw and guide rail system that I used for "jointing" long boards. He asked to stop by and bring two boards I could demonstrate on.

    He places them side by side on my worktable. They aren't that bad — maybe a 1/2" distance between them at two points of the 8 ft. length. Add to that the bad section on the one board, it is a good set to demonstrate the method on.

  He lays the long guide rail on one of the two pieces and exposes as much as necessary to cut the entire length.

   Bob uses the Festool plunge saw to make the first cut.

   Bob picks up the off cut. When you have a piece that is thin in part but is whole the entire length, it is a good rip. It is as straight as the guide rail is and Festool guide rails are straight!

    When he sets the guide rail in place on the 2nd board, he sets it back far enough to remove this rotten section of the board.

   And makes the cut.

   Here is the wider off-cut. In normal jointing, this section probably would have been made at the table saw — a task that can be difficult if the edge is rough. Or it could be made by a number of passes over the jointer. Or it can be made it one rip cut with the Festool system.

   Bob puts the two new edges together and says "this joint is pretty good — good enough for glue-up." I respond that we have trimmed the boards nicely, but "edge jointing" comes next.

    Bob puts a 2 1/2" screw through a drilled hole in both ends of the right-hand board. This will keep it from moving away from the other board.

      He disconnects the vacuum hose from the plunge saw and uses it to vacuum any dust or splinters that would get in the way of the two boards. With the area clean, he brings the loose board over to the one that is screwed down and places the guide rail and clamps so that the saw blade can cut both pieces at one time. This is key — the kerf of the blade must remove a little from each of the boards. In that the guide rail is exactly aligned with the saw, placing the rail to bi-sect the kerf is easier than it may sound.

      Bob makes this "jointing" cut.

With the "edge jointing" rip cut made, Bob inspects closely the edges. They are tight the entire 8 ft. length as they should be. It is a very workable method. If you think about it, it would take quite a long bed jointer and skill to be able to handle the 8 ft. length the usual way.

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