I am now inserting the
template into the jig. It slides in and locks one way and only one way — that's a
help.
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At each end of
the template, there is a plastic round piece. It is on the underside of the template. The
instructions say to move the template back until this piece comes in contact with the
base. I had a hard time seeing that, but now know that you can feel it contact the base.
The wheel is adjustable to correct the fit of the joint — we will be back to that
sometime soon.
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These two guides ride in the
track and are set so that the work pieces are aligned to the jig. There are several arms
on them. You simply rotate it until the arm that has the number that matches your template
is facing the center. The template is attached but is swiveled up a bit.
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Now, I have lowered
the template and moved the black stop back and forth until it fits in the template's
window. With it free in the window, you move the stop until the arrow is against the flat
side of the window. With that done, the template is in sync with the edge stops
— a rather neat way of doing things. I like it better than setting by eye to a line
that is etched in the frame. This is very positive, very exact, and very quick.
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Similar to other
jigs, the instructions show you how to mark the four parts to a drawer box. Two opposing
corners are "A" corners and the others are "B".
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The "A" corner
pieces go to the left end of the jig and the "B" pieces go to the right end. You
can see that the outside board is aligned to the right of the other. That little black
guide I set a couple of frames ago, does that offset for me.
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Now I am installing the
bit that goes with this template and adapter ring. It's a funny feeling to not know any
more about it — just that it goes with the template.
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Now I zero the bit by
plunging so that the bit just touches the top of the workpiece. I lock the plunge at that
point.
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With the
plunge locked at the zero point and the plunge rod set, I can move the scale to read 12mm,
the suggested starting depth for this bit/template combination.
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Well, I finally got to make
some sawdust. Actually, I have connected the guide fence that has a dust collection snout.
It is too far away from the bit to catch much dust. The catalog shows a different
port so I will get that and give it a try.
Other than that, the cutting went well, for a first try.
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I said it went well, but
certainly not perfect. The manual shows two types of adjustments. The first one is for
joints too tight or too loose — you adjust the router bit depth...pretty much the way
you correct this on most 1/2 blind jigs. The problem I have is corrected easily and
quickly by adjusting the adjustment rings at both ends of the template. They are what
control the depth of the cut.
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