The other thing I have
done is to remove the guide rail hinge that was on the back end of the table and brought
it around to the side. The guide rail for the table was too short for this side, so I
switched and placed the 52" one in its place. That whole "process" took all
of 5 minutes. It will be easy to switch back as well.
With it here, I align the two ends with the front of my base plate. From that
point on, the hinge will keep it aligned.
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With the Veritas
putting slight pressure on the four rails I have in place, I align them using a piece of
3/4" stock. That distance is how much I allowed when locating the base.
Once set, I can lower the guide rail and make the cut.
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I make the cuts. The fence
passes by the wood first — I have adjusted the whole setup so that the fence is set
by the bearing and the router by the fence. That means, when I have the router on the
guide rail, the fence should be "kissing" the wood pieces.
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Here are the coped ends. The
arrow points to where I should have that 1/16" lip. I think I am a bit less than
that. This will work. Next time I will try to get a thicker lip. It will resist tearout
better.
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This is a better
view and shows the copes before I sanded away any tearout — there is really very
little.
Now it is time to cut the profiled edges,
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I have removed my right
angle fence and have put the long piece back in place. I use a piece of 3/4" stock to
set the bar.
At the top, you can see the dowel (arrow) I placed to keep the wood from
scooting out. This has proved very useful.
Note that the narrow 1 1/2" wide boards do not have much base to sit on.
The guide rail will hold them in place, but the fence on the router will keep them in
place.
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I made a sample cut to test the
bit height. I was lucky to be dead on. The two bits are well matched.
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I make the cuts. I gang
several pieces together. There is very little hold on these pieces. I press down on the
guide rail to keep the rail down firmly. As I said before, the fence is set to the
bearing and it keeps the narrow strips from coming out.
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This is what it is all about
— a handsome frame with tight coped corners.
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This is a close-up of one of
the corners. This is dry fitted and not glued and clamped. The alignment is perfect.
Next, I have to cut a panel for this frame. Actually, my next project will be
a barrister bookcase. For that, I will rabbet away the lower ledge so that the glass can
be mounted from underneath. That should be as easy task.
As for doing rail and stile work with the Festool equipment, I am now
convinced that it is easy, safe and reproducible. These jigs work well with the Festool
Multi Function table. I am really liking those 3/4" holes.
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