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When we
finished last week, we didn't know how many people would be interested in this project.
Happily, we were surprised that so many were. There are a lot of different skills
involved, and the project, overall, was challenging.
Maureen and I have learned by our errors—and we have made a few. We will
show you them in hopes that you can learn from them, as well.
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During the week, Maureen and I
veneered another molding shape for the lid. As you can see, it has problems. The
tips that form the center had a lot of chip-out, and the edges of the sectors don't fit
well together—this was from the blade not being exactly at 90o.
As we studied these first efforts, we both thought that we could improve on
our methods and also try some other veneers.
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Greg at Certainly Woods had sent several veneers which he thought would
form well. In looking through those pieces, we thought that a combination of Quarter Sawn
Sapele and Curly Maple might make for an interesting jewelry box.
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This time, we also selected a piece of
standard molding that was a bit wider. Maureen is holding the two pieces to see if
these contrasting veneers would be attractive. We both thought that it had a chance,
so Maureen proceeded to cut the veneers.
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It is hard to accurately measure linear
inches on a curved piece of molding. Maureen uses a strip of paper and forms it to the
molding and then marks where the "V" is. That will be where each piece of veneer
will start.
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She then transfers the width she needs
to the Sapele and aligns a straight edge in preparation for making the cut.
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She makes the cut using the veneer
knife. While we are using the main workbench for this project, we have placed a piece of
1/4" ply on top to protect the bench. It is also easier on the knife blade.
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She measures and cuts the Curly Maple
as well.
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With both pieces cut, she fits them
together. She uses a small piece of masking tape to hold them together momentarily.
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As she did last week, Maureen uses the
punched veneer tape to form the hinge of the two pieces.
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She carefully positions the wetted tape.
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And smoothes it along the length.
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This is an important step. Just as she did last
week, she folds the one piece over the edge of the bench top. She does this while the
veneer tape is still wet. This separates the two pieces a small fraction that will allow
the two pieces to fit well when they are inserted in the "V" of the molding.
Now here is something we learned the hard way: it is important to let the
tape dry totally once it has been shaped over the edge—otherwise the pieces may come
apart when they are pressed to the molding.
Gaps in our first pieces were caused by "hurrying" this process. It
takes only a few minutes for the tape to dry properly.
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