Routing Raised Panels Using a Vertical Raised Panel Bit

	Beth sizes up the problem. She holds in place a typical board that she would use. It is too tall to comfortably and safely route with this fence.
This piece of white melamine will make an ideal fence addition. Beth can cut the standard holes off and still have enough height to attach to the CMT fence.
	She will make two easy rips and have a board that will be just right. These white melamine panels are very inexpensive and offer a nice, flat and smooth surface.
With the panel cut down to size, Beth marks where the panel needs to have holes to fit into the fence's channel.
	She drills a couple of holes and then follows with a countersink.
That couldn't have been easier. She has attached the tall board to the CMT router table fence and is checking for square — it is right on.
	Beth eases the new fence into the running bit and cuts a new "zero clearance" hole.
Beth makes her first raised panel with the vertical raised panel bit. Using the Grr-Ripper gives her safe control of the wood panel and uniform pressure well above the bit height. She has made the cut in two passes. Note that she has clamped the fence into position. The addition of the 3/4" melamine board has increased the fence depth so that the normal fence stop can't be used.
	She inspects the cut. It looks very good even for this wood with rather wild grain pattern.
While the Grr-Ripper worked very well, Beth and I will try to add a feather board that will be about 1 1/2 inch above the table height so that it exerts pressure above the cutter. We will also make a left hand fence stop that can be more accurate than the clamp we used this time. All-in-all, Beth and I were pleased with using the vertical panel bit. It gave us a final raised panel with the smoothness and safety that we both like.