Once the
correct router bit height is determined, she can make a fine tune of the fence
setting. With the fence set correctly, the board edge should line up with the
forward part of the bit.
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To check
out the settings, she runs the "B" sample piece vertically. I have made this
shop jig to hold small pieces vertically.
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This is
a pretty good corner. A small adjustment should be enough so that she can run the actual
pieces.
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The
final sample joint. It is about as good as you can get. The CMT lock miter joint is so
square and has great gluing surfaces.
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That is
how I set up these bits. Height is critical. You can buy set-up blocks, but I don't think
they help as much as knowing the SOPs. If you save your samples, that is all the set-up
blocks you will ever need. Remember, that the stock you are setting up for must be exactly
the same as the stock your "sample" or "set-up" blocks are.
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Some say
that to run the wood vertical for the lock miter bit, you need a tall vertical fence. Not
so. My fence is about 5" high. All I have to do is to set up feather boards before
the cutter in the same area as where I am placing a push pad. That should keep the
workpiece tight against the fence.
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I have
used a shop made vertical fence that simply clamps onto the router table top. It works and
if you have a lot to run, then it may be worthwhile to make.
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Also, you
can make multiple passes with any of these bit set-ups. I often send the piece back for a
"final" pass. I use my hearing — if I hear that the bit is still
removing wood, another pass is necessary. If the fence is set correctly, you won't take
off too much with additional passes.Menu by Product - CMT Products
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