Earlier,
I set the fence to the low point of the bit. Now in running the actual boards, I can
refine that setting. My finger is pointing to the very fine space between the fresh molded
board and the outfeed fence. Simply bring the fence forward that little bit and you are
set to run the wood correctly.
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I have
put two feather boards in place to keep gentle downward pressure on the stock as I run it.
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A final
frame with me and the nicely joined boards using the CMT Reverse Glue Joint — it is a
fine bit for joining boards once you know how to set the bit up.
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Now
let's look at the Lock Miter Bit — it can seem much harder to setup. But it is not
really.
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The
instructions simply say to match up the center point of the bit (the illustration) with
the center point of your stock. Theoretically, that is correct but I think it makes things
harder to do rather than easier. Like, where is the center point?
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Gail was
helping me this day and she starts the setup process exactly like I did with the reverse
glue joint.
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She
makes a rough setting of "centerpoint" to "centerpoint" and then
lowers the bit s lightly. That way, once she figures out how great the discrepancy is, she
will know that the bit has to be raised.
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She sets
the fence so that the bit is slightly ahead of the forward point of the sample block. She
will set the fence exactly once the bit height is set properly.
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She makes
sample cuts with the "A" side run up and the "B: side down.
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And she
uses the "card trick" to determine how great the discrepancy is.
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Having
counted out 1/2 the cards, she adjusts for the discrepancy. She knows she will have to
raise it that amount since she purposely lowered the bit earlier.
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