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The locking miter router bit is not new. I have seen it in catalogs for years. I have also
read some articles on projects using it, but after seeing questions get asked frequently
in the various woodworker forums, I decided it might be a good joint to learn first hand.
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I wanted to find out several things: 1)
how easy was it to setup; 2) how strong was the joint; 3) was it attractive and finally 4)
what router table, router and jigs would be necessary to use it properly and safely.
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Let me start at the beginning. The instructions say that one side is routed flat on the table and the other is held vertical against the fence. Here is the illustration from the CMT catalog. Of course, that is if you are making a corner joint. The bit can also be used as a glue-up joint for mating parallel boards; that is a different story completely and will cover at the end. |
Since one member would be routed vertically against the fence, I decided the standard fence either needed a taller front piece or a new fence was in order. I opted for the latter. It seems to me that if this joint is a serious option, I would like to have a fence dedicated to this use. |
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For the main fence components, I purchased a piece of MDF (stair tread) that is 12 inches and a little over 3/4" thick. I double checked to be sure that the tread was as flat as it should be. I ripped this in two, with widths of 5" and 8". That would give me an 8" high fence with enough of a base to give me a solid, perpendicular mount. I cut both pieces to the 32" width of the router table. Here I am drilling countersink holes along the lower edge of the vertical piece, which will be fastened to the vertical board. |
Since "perpendicular" is the key word, I cut several blocks of 3/4" birch ply, being careful to cut them exactly at 90o. These would be the basis for the perpendicular bracing of the jig. Each block was cut diagonally giving me the braces I needed. The Incra Miter Gauge gave me the accuracy of cut that I needed. |
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