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I had
used this set of panel raising bits several months ago. At that time, I set the height of
each bit by trial and error. I am excited to think that Marc's trick of O-rings in the
collet would really allow me to set the height once and thereafter just change bits.
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Having mounted the coping profile
in the router, I set the height to approximately where I want the shape to be. The
instructions say that you want at least 1/8" on the back rabbet.
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I adjust the split fences to allow room for the cutter. Note, that there are some fences where you can have zero clearance inserts for each profile. Marc has such a fence, and it works very well. This split fence is part of the Woodhaven router table that I use, and it also worked very well. |
I adjust the fence so that it is aligned with the bit's bearing. |
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Having the right pushblock(s) is necessary for both good cuts and safety. Just as I did with the Jr. Raised Panel bits, I made a new pushblock and marked it for this use. The new pushblock also serves as a good backing board and will greatly reduce tearout. |
I make trial cuts. This is actually the second try. The first one, at the right of the block, was about 1/8" too much thickness at the top of the curve. Note that I am using the hold down just as I did with the small pieces of the jewelry box project. |
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With the the profile where I want it, I now start routing the end profiles on each of the rails. The rail in front has been shaped. I use the push block to guide the rail through the cutter at right angle to the fence. My left hand holds the rail flat to the table. |
Now, I have my two rails cut with their cope profiles at both ends. It looks good. Now comes the moment to see if changing bits can be done without having to reset height. |
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