Here is how the shaft lock works. You push it in, and it engages the flat of the shaft. This is great when the router is out, but when mounted under the table, it is hard to access, to say the least.         Marc has added a wire control on the shaft lock for his super router table.  I did much the same. The hole I drilled allows me to fasten a push rod to the shaft lock.   I can insert a 1/4" threaded rod which I lock with a couple of nuts.  Note, the outside nut is a double nut for locking. I do not want that nut to vibrate free and drop into the router motor.  Then I can run the long portion of the rod to the side of the table where I have drilled a hole through the side.        I add an inexpensive wood knob that I have inserted a 1/4" threaded insert.  I now have a great remote control of the shaft lock.    To prevent starting the router with the shaft lock engaged, I will hang the router plug on this knob when changing bits. This also means that I don't need to bend over and pick the plug off the floor—I am liking this more and more.    The next problem is illustrated in this picture. It is next to impossible to use the manufacturer's straight wrench to tighten the collet from above the table. There is no room for the wrench and the bit.    Well, Marc has invented the bent wrench that allows him to snake between the bit and the access hole and get to the collet nut.    I tried to make this wrench but gave up when Marc said that he has them for sale for Hitachi and Porter Cable routers— at $14.95. This may be the best tool bargain in my shop.    To try this bent wrench out, I selected my largest bit which would also be the hardest to install since it gives the least room for wrench insertion.    I quickly learn that you place the bit in the collet so that the wrench can go in on the narrowest side—just like in this picture.    You just rotate and remove the wrench. It is amazingly simple.  My right hand is on the shaft lock knob, and my left hand tightens the collet.    By the way, if you get into the practice of inserting the bit so that the collet flats are crosswise to the bit, you will greatly minimize fumbling and searching for the flats to tighten. It is a minor point but one of those tricks that make bit changing very easy.    My thanks to Marc Sommerfeld for sharing these ideas with me—and now, you.    Now what I am itching to do is to try out this whole new way to change bits—and try them on one of the "matched bit sets." Is it really possible to set-up once and then just go back and forth between bits—and have all the joints come out right? That is my question. The answer is on the next page. Main Menu           Previous  Page         Next  Page