"A Test of Your Box Making Ability"

Huh? Yes, I want to show a great and simple test for making boxes. But you say you have no need for boxes. Me neither but it is a test of your woodworking system that I am suggesting.    In the '60's when I first got into woodworking for the 2nd time, I was using my fathers radial arm saw to make a few frames. I could get the first three corners to fit beautifully, but the 4th one was always a bit off — more than a clamp should attack.    It was a good lesson for me that the first three corners do not matter as much as the 4th.  In fact, if everything is setup properly, all corners should fit snuggly as should the completed box.    Does this make sense?
	When we started this test day, Elena placed a scrap piece of white melamine particle core board on the work table and asked "Why are we making this box?"    I told her just about what I described in the paragraph above — and then added "you'll see."    If you follow my cutting procedures, I try to cut one direction with parallel measurements and the 2nd with perpendicular. If you haven't read my treatises on parallel and square, take a moment now but be sure to come back.    Square how-to:  click here to go there    Parallel how-to: click here to go there
Elena and I will be doing this test box using the Festool Plunge Saw and guide rail system. It can and should also be done with the table saw, chop saw and any other panel sizing/ wood cutting tools.
	She sets the blade angle to 45º.  I happen to know that this saw is calibrated so 45º means 45º but it all cases we should check this miter setting. While I have a very accurate 45º "square", it is hard to accurately use it, so my preference is always to cut two pieces of wood at this setting and then measure the two pieces together. That 90º is easier to measure and a more accurate method.
As you can see, Elena has placed a guide rail on the white melamine. She has added one clamp at each end.  The plunge saw fits the rail so tightly that all she has to do is keep downward pressure on the left side of the saw, and use her right hand to push it forward. It is an "easy" cut to make.

	As I mentioned at the start of this story, we like to cut in one direction using parallel marks and the other direction, a square and a short guide rail.    She marks here an 8" mark. She will make this same marking at two other spots along the piece to be safe.
Yes, I forgot to take the picture of her cutting the 8" long piece, but she did and now she is running a stripe down the length of it so that we will know the "direction" of each piece as we proceed.
	Elena is fastening a "fence" to the work table. We will use this to position the guide rail square to it and the work piece that is resting against it.
I am using a speed square to set the smaller guide rail square to the new "fence." Don't shudder at the site of such an inexpensive square. I have two that are right on and I use them when I can. With their one edge having a lip, they are very fast to use and if I drop and damage one, I am only out $15.
	With the workpiece held tight against the fence, I can make the cut.  In fact, I make a couple of cuts.    For Festool owners who also have an MFT (multi function table), that can certainly be used.
I said earlier that 45º was difficult to measure but 90º is easy. Here is what I meant. There is a slight line showing. That is a pencil mark on the edge that I made so that you could see the corner. In fact, this is as tight a miter joint that you could have on any fine woodworking tool. It gives us the "nod" to proceed. The real test is when four sides and the top and bottom are put together.