Project - Making the Pyramid Bookcase

When the edge has cooled totally, I use a fine file to remove the little bit of veneer that overhangs the panel. The filing action must be towards the panel so as to not tear or lift the edging. I have several edge trimmers, but I find that the file may take a little longer, but will give me a better edge. The trimmers can catch the grain and make a real mess of it. I do use the trimmers when using white plastic edging on Melamine boards.
	After filing, I use 120 grit sand paper to go over the edge very lightly.
Here are the 4 shelves of one unit with finished front edges.
	I am going to use pocket screws to hold the shelves in position. I have had the original Kreg Jig for about 12 years now. When I first got it, I mounted it in this plywood base. I even store the special bit in the jig.
This close-up shows how deep the drill should be set. The tip on the drill should be just short of the base. There is a stop collar at the other end.
	I have adjusted the toggle clamp so that it just holds the piece in the jig. The underside of the shelves will get the pocket holes and that side is facing me.
Note that I am using an electric drill. When I first used this jig, I used a cordless unit and broke a lot of the drill bits. At that time, it was suggested that I use a drill that had higher speed — I went out and got this drill and have not broken a stepped drill since. Since the stepped drills are relatively expensive, I am happy to make this change to a corded drill here.
	Pocket hole drilling goes very fast.  The jig itself has two, side by side, holes. That is for 1 1/2" face frames. I simply placed single holes at points across the width of the sides — ensuring that the outboard holes match up with the 1 1/2" square uprights.
I am ready to assemble each unit. I add a little carpenter's glue to the edges.
	I use the vise grip that I purchased with the Kreg jig. It has a wide surface that aligns the edges of the face side (left half of picture) and a small surface that is for the back (right half). When the boards differ in thickness, this can be very useful. It holds the boards so that I can add the screws without worrying about alignment of the components.
A little trick for using the pocket screw is to place the screws in the pre-drilled holes by hand. This ensures that the screws are in the inside, screw hole.    There are many different pocket screws — each one having a special purpose. I will discuss that next.