Project - Making the Pyramid Bookcase

It is the next day, and I unclamp the glued up pieces. I am using my hand power planer to remove a few droplets of glue and even up the pieces. If you recall, I cut them at 1 5/8". Two passes on each side, and I should have clean 1 1/2" square stock. [Yes, I shouldn't use the planer for glue removal, but I haven't yet unpacked scrapers.]
	I have clamped the pieces back together and am using the belt sander to remove any marks from planing.
A few minutes with the random orbital sander at 120 grit leaves them ready for finishing. It is much easier now than when they are assembled.
	The next step is for me to cut the sharp angle on the back upright. It measures about 75o (15o off perpendicular, so neither my miter saw or table saw miter gauge will help me.    What I have done is drag the entire layout board to the table saw. The back end is resting on a roller stand. I have set a straight edge (level) parallel to the blade and use it to move the plywood to line up with that straight edge. In fact, what I am making is a "one time taper jig." Rather than to use the fence, I will attach an Incra Miter Slide to the underside of the plywood which I have now set to the correct angle.
This is the jig almost ready to use. You can see the Incra Miter Bar in the table saw's miter slot. I have gotten under the board and have attached it to the plywood with several screws.    I have used the straight edge that is resting against the outside leg position on this new jig setup. This now give me the correct angle to cut.
	I make my cut. You can see that I removed the outside leg which I had in place for setting the angle, and now have clamped the back, vertical leg to the jig. It is this piece that gets the sharp angle.    You can see that I have installed the piece so that it protrudes an inch or so at the top end. I want the blade  to make the top cut. I will cut the piece to length at the bottom — that is a square cut which I will do later.
Here is the final cut. This jig worked very well and gives me exact, repeatable angles. I am using the CMT 23 tooth rip blade. Also note, I saw as far as it takes to cut off the angled piece — then I reverse the jig and ease it away from the blade.    With the rest of the plywood resting on the roller stand and the Incra Miter Slide guiding the jig, I  have nothing to do but to make the cut.
	This view shows the Incra Miter Slide. I was able to get three screws in from the underside when it was in position. I have flipped it over to add a couple more screws. I do not want any give with this slide.
With the back legs cut, I move the layout board back to the horses. I have clamped the upright I just cut in place and am now clamping the outside leg to it. It meets with the angle cut I just made. I let the end of the new leg overlap the top. I will mark and cut it in a minute.
	I have used a bevel gauge to measure the angle between the front and back legs. I said earlier that this is 15o, but now that the angle is cut on the leg, it is better to measure the exact angle. I move the saw until the saw lines up with the bevel gauge. It turns out to be 13o.    I use the chop saw to cut both ends on each of the cross pieces. I purposely leave each piece about 3/4" too long. On each cross piece, one end will be the 13o angle and the other will be 90o.