The beadLOCK tenon stock comes in 12" lengths.
The instructions say to cut tenons 1/8th" shorter than combined depths...to allow for
glue and the rounded shape of the drill bit.
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Then I applied yellow (PVA) glue to both surfaces and assembled the pieces. Clamp in the usual way. |
After clamping, I have as strong and straight a joint as I could want. Final sanding will remove the witness mark. |
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To get an even stronger joint, I tried a polyurethane glue on the tenon. At the right, I brushed water lightly in the mortise. This adhesive swells slightly in curing and according to my sources, in a tight joint like this, the glue will expand into the pores of the wood making an even stronger joint. I tried to get either joint to break and I couldn't. I realize that isn't very scientific an approach, but I think both adhesives will give a very strong joint and suggest you use what you prefer. The polyurethane is waterproof and should be used when that is a requirement. |
Well I purposely made a door frame using cope and stile bits. I wanted to see how the beadLOCK would do with these shaped pieces. It did fine and centered on the 3/4" stock. Unfortunately, the film is still in the camera. I will show this series next time.The kit includes shims so that you can offset the tenon such as you might for a table apron which could be set back from the leg.My final word: the The beadLOCK Loose Tenon Joinery System is an inexpensive device that can be a useful accessory to many woodworking shops. Certainly it will have a place in my shop.
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