New Product - "Akeda Dovetail Jig"

I am inserting and adjusting the spacing of the guide forks that will be used to cut the dovetail slots on my first test board. The arrow points to a dimple that is on the jig. The manual says to align the first fork with that dimple and then move it one space to the right. That will allow the edge pin to have a width of a half-tail plus 1/8".    [Note: the black plastic fingers are dark black but lightened here for clarification.]
	I am using a dividing jig ["point2point from Woodcraft - click here.] The catalog says it is not designed for exacting uses like laying out dovetails. I find that it is much closer than the eye. It sure works fine here. I place the first marker where my left mark is and then stretch the assembly to see where other dovetails should be cut. In this piece, I could do five dovetails but opt for four instead. I mark those points and move the fingers so that their center points are at my pencil marks.
The manual says to set the router depth to the height of the workpiece thickness plus 1/2" for the depth of the fingers. This would work fine, but I decided to set the depth the traditional way.    I placed the router on the jig and lowered the bit until it touched the wood (zeroed). At that point I set the adjustment ring to 0. I then adjusted the router until the dial read 3/4" — the thickness of the wood I am using.
	With the guide adapter in place, it is always hard to see where you are routing. I found that by looking over the router, I can see the pencil marks when they are centered in the router's space. Of course the router is guided by the fingers exactly. I use sighting to be sure that I am routing where a finger is and not in between fingers. The unit comes with spacer material that can be inserted between the fingers. I will give this a try in the future, but right now, I will just watch where I am routing.
Here is my first cut joint. The dovetail sockets look good and evenly aligned.
	Now I am getting ready to cut the pin board. I have installed the 7o fingers to match the dovetail bit I am using. I have inserted the fingers using the pencil marks to line them up. You can see the slight bit of the board at the far right. That represents the extra 1/8" that I added to make the outside pin less fragile.
I am now using the router with the straight bit. I have set the router bit depth the same way as I did the other.   I start each of the pins by making a slight cut from left to right — a "climb" cut.  This reduces chance of splintering and tearout. With that cut, I take several cuts from left to right until all the wood between the fingers has been removed. I follow that with one complete cut following the outline of the fingers.
r	I have a well defined pin board.
The fit is exact. I am using a rubber mallet, but I could have hand fit. The Akeda jig people have included three straight bits in their package. I am using the middle bit. The others are slightly smaller and slightly larger. I will try the larger to see if the looser fit would be better for glueup.
	Here is the first through dovetail corner. It is about as good as you can get. I particularly like the exact match of the top and bottom. The two boards match up exactly.