New Product - "The Kreg Precision Beaded Face-Frame System"

I slide the fence onto the sliding base. Four bolts will keep it secure.
	Note the thick washer. There are two of them in the parts bag and they serve a very  distinct purpose. You put one under two sections of the fence and tighten the 4 bolts with them in place. When that is done, you can remove the washers and the fence will "float" above the table top.
I install the special clamp per the instructions.
	I use a block of wood to help me align the fence with the base. Once that is set and the the bolts tightened, the base is the only thing that has to be adjusted to the bit.
I shot this picture so that you could see where the fine adjustment for router height is. It is the black thumbwheel in the bottom of the pic. I point that out because we will want to make minor adjustments with it but then the fence is back and the base moved to the cutting position, the thumbwheel can hardly be seen, let alone moving it. But I made a fix that I will show you in a moment.
	These are the two bits that come with the Kreg Beaded Face Frame kit. The one on the left is the "notching bit" and when set correctly, it gives you a cut that is exactly 1 1/2" wide. The Bit on the right is a 1/4" beading bit. We will discuss the installation and use of both of these bits.
Well I got this shot of Elena bringing the thickness planer out of storage but I didn't get a picture of us using it to machine the wood frame pieces down to 1 1/2" exactly. I had never passed wood through on its edges but that is what I did and it performed very well.
	The first step in setting up the beading fence is to install a 1/2" centering bit.
I then set the stop at 1/4" exactly. The small magnifier on the stop makes the setting of these points very accurate.
	Then I move the base and the beading fence over until the stop just "kisses" the centering bit.  Since the bit is 1/2" and the stop is set at 1/4", touching the bit should give us the exact centering position. We lock the base to fix that point.