How to Make Your Own Ice Cream Scoop

Woodcraft’s new stainless steel ice cream scoop is sure to be a great addition to your kitchen utencils. Adding your design shape and material type to complement your kitchen is up to you! Woodcraft has a huge selection of exotic and domestic wood to choose from for this fun and easy project. We’ll walk you through how you can make your very own ice cream scoop handle with just a few hours of your time. Woodcraft has all of the components you will need to build this ice cream scoop. Let’s begin by purchasing the NEW Stainless Steel Ice Cream Scoop Kit, Woodcraft Item #153928. (Click on all photos for enlargement or additional information)


Next, I chose this NEW Curly Cherry Wood (2x2x6 block, Woodcraft Item #154466), which will arrive at your local Woodcraft stores and online in various sizes including pen blanks sometime in October 2012. I chose this wood because of the marbled grain and color details. Our Product Development Manager and wood guru, George Snyder brought this upcoming product to my attention, so I thought it would make a great choice coupled with the new scoop.

Finding the Centers
I marked my centers at each end of the wood block with the ZERO ZERO Center Finder from Woodcraft, Item #02J14 (which happens to be ON SALE July 1st through July 26th, 2012). I like this item because of the see-through visibility to easily find the center accurately by creating lines made from each of the wood block’s 4 corners. I proceeded to punch the center by using an automatic center punch. Woodcraft has a different rendition of the one shown in the photo with the General Tools Heavy Duty Professional Automatic Center Punch, Model 78, Woodcraft Item #416181.

Now it’s time to start creating some sawdust starting with the drill press. Using a machine tool centering bit, I drilled into the pre-punched center mark for the threaded rod hole to be drilled next.

After center drilling, it’s over to the Powermatic Lathe for drilling out a 23/64″ diameter hole for the scoop’s 3/8″-16 diameter threaded rod. You’ll need the undersized diameter drill bit so that the scoop threads engage into the wood when gluing with a 2-part epoxy for later assembly.  Another assembly choice is to use a threaded insert.

Lathe Setup
Pre-measure how much drill length you will need and give yourself another 1/4″-1/2″ depth so you do not bottom out during assembly later, by marking the drill bit (shown left above) with painters tape.

Insert the WoodRiver keyless chuck, Woodcraft Item #152678 (photo below left) loaded with the 23/64″ drill bit into the head stock.

Hold the block of wood (right) firmly against the WoodRiver 60 Degrees Ball Bearing Live Tailstock Center with #2 Morse Taper. Woodcraft Item #149168 (photo above right), located in the tailstock. Using approximately 250-300 RPM spindle speed, drill into the pre-drilled center hole of the wood block by controlling your wood block, fed into the drill bit with the tailstock spindle as your driving force into the drill bit at a slow pace.


After drilling to the pre-measured depth, replace the keyless chuck with a Sorby 7/8″ Diameter, #2 MT Drive Center, Woodcraft Item #145520



Center the wood block non-drilled hole end to the drive center in the lathe head stock. Hold it firmly as you move the tailstock live cone center into the drilled hole end of the block until the wood is firmly held between the two centers. You are now ready for turning.

Rough Turning the Handle
I placed the tool rest at the correct height for using a spindle roughing gouge. Choose the one that you prefer as size is not critical. I started shaping the square form into the desired diameter.

Tenon Cutting & Ferrule Fit
Once I had the round completed, I began cutting the tenon for the ice cream scoop ferrule. Turning down to a press fit diameter is a slow and critical process with many stops and checks to be sure you get the right fit. Remember, once you take material off, you cannot add it back on! My turning tool of choice was the Mini Easy Wood Rougher, Woodcraft Item #845506.

As I got down to the correct diameter, I made sure to include extra material height to go beyond the live cone center, which will need to be cut off later.

A quick tip here. As you are getting down to the required diameter measured off of the inside diameter of the ferrule, create a slight taper on the tenon to use as a press fit as you slide the ferrule onto the tenon.

I temporarily removed the turned stock from the lathe and cut off the extra height with the Shinwa 301/S03.00 Bakuma American Slim Cut Hand Saw 300mm, Woodcraft Item #126312. At this point, press fit the ferrule onto the tenon without any adhesive, just in case a mistake is made going forward in completing the handle shape.

Finish Turning the Handle Design
The design shape is purely left to your ideas and imagination. I wanted something that would be a sculpted fit in my hand when using the scoop with a thumb press fit while scooping the ice cream. Once your conception is realized, you can draw it on paper and transfer it onto the wood or just wing it, as I did! I marked an approximate line as to a radius center for the thumb fit,as shown below.

Once again, I turned to the Mini Easy Wood Finisher, Woodcraft Item #845746.

I proceeded with sanding using the Mirka Abranet 2-3/4″ x 8″ Sanding Sheets, 8 piece, Woodcraft Item #150317. Working my way from 80 grit to 400 grit paper, these sheets allow for non-clogging smooth sanding, leaving you with a fine finish.

After sanding was complete, I used General Finishes Wood Turners Finish, about 8 to 10 coats, leaving a great finish. This stuff dries quickly and allows for repeated coats to be applied. Shine, are you kidding me! Seeing is believing and this stuff really works well!

Bottom Design – Drilling & Turning
We’re not quite done yet! The handle end (left side) has left a center hole and surrounding marks in the wood where the drive center is positioned. I’ll need to face it off or come up with a finish design for that end.

Rosewood Button Plug
Use your imagination for the bottom end design like a coin, marble insert, or perhaps a contrasting wood piece to accent or offset the darker lines in the cherry will give this handle just the right look. I decided on a contrasting piece by creating a Rosewood accent button plug. But first I needed to make the plug hole in the bottom of the handle. Using a 3/4″ diameter Forstner Bit, Woodcraft Item #147069.

I squared off the end with a Crown 3/8″ Spindle Gouge, followed by using a Crown Beading & Parting Tool to shape the button and separate it from the stock. Sand the button plug with the 8 different grit sheets of Mirka Abranet.

Gluing & Assembly
Glue the button plug to the handle bottom and the ferrule to the tenon using Titebond II Wood Glue, Woodcraft #Item #08L43 and press fit both ends with a vice, protecting both sides of the handle.

Three final steps; first applying the System Three 5 Minute Epoxy, 1/2 Pint, Woodcraft Item #124270, to the threads and ferrule area top and hole…

Second…adhere the scoop by threading into the finished handle until the scoop is tight to the ferrule.

I had previously commented about a sculpted fit for my hand. Here is the conception formed into reality.

The last step to perform, time for some ice cream!

Now that you know how to make this project, get to your local Woodcraft store or go online for your ice cream scoop and supplies. Have fun and be sure to share your ice cream scoop designs (and your favorite ice cream!) right here on the Woodcraft Adventures Blog & Gallery.

auf Wiedersehen..Frank!

How To Make Your Own Sign

Let’s begin with the MILESCRAFT TurnLock SignCrafter Sign Making Jig, Woodcraft Item #146219. You can create professional horizontal signs in no time at all. The ready to use kit includes templates, clamps, template guide bushing and carbide-tipped router bit. “Easy-To-Use” self-spacing templates ensure consistent signs every time with no measuring.


  • TurnLock™ technology 7″ universal router base plate.
  • Low profile C-clamps provide secure clamping without obstructing router operation.
  • 3″ to 36″ long signs up to 18 horizontal characters can be used at once.
  • 2-1/2″ horizontal character templates include letters and numbers.
  • 3/8″ core box router bits and 5/8″ metal-nose guide bushing.
In addition to this kit, Woodcraft’s Product Development Manager, George Snyder chose the King ColorCore Sign Stock Green/White/Green 24″ x 24″, Woodcraft Item #153625 for this particular project to make his sign. This is an excellent choice for any outdoor sign.  It has contrasting colors and does not need a finish.  A plus is that it can be cut and routed with tools you already have in your shop.  If you have ever seen a polymer sign at the golf course or at your local park, it was probably made with King ColorCore. It also is available in a Tan/Green/Tan 24″ x 24″ stock, Woodcraft Item #153624, and a Black/White/Black 24″ x 24″ stock, Woodcraft Item #153626. Of course you may also choose from our wide variety of exotic and domestic woods to create signs with to use in conjunction with the Milescraft Jigs.

Product Information:

ColorCore® is a colorfast, environmentally stabilized polymer sheet that can stand up to thousands of uses, beautifully. This is the perfect product for routed and carved letter signs. ColorCore’s unique PolyFusion™ process is a proprietary technology that fuses contrasting layers of colors into a single homogeneous sheet.


  • Works with all common woodworking tools.
  • No need to ever paint or stain.
  • Will not delaminate or decay.
  • Color cap is .05″ for ease in routing or faster CNC production.
  • Easily forms for smooth contours and bends.
  • Sheet size is 1/2″ x 24″ x 24″.
  • Available in 3 color variety choices.
Sign Making:

George demonstrates in these photos, the step by step procedure in routinga sign using the Porter-Cable 1-3/4 HP Router, Model 690LR, Woodcraft Item #143163WH with this kit. (This router is currently on sale through July 26th, 2012.)

Start by placing the letters in the guide rail for your particular sign. Add a guide bushing to the router. A guide bushing comes with the SignCrafter Kit, but in this case George used a bushing from the 10 Piece Router Bushing Set with Case, Woodcraft Item #144625. The guide bushing will ride along the letter track for cutting each letter required.

Next, place the sign material on the workbench and clamp the SignCrafter Kit down. The guide rail can be clamped in a couple of different ways. Double stick tape, screws for actual clamps as George used in this situation. He was in the process of making several different size signs, so this was the fastest method. They all work equally well.

You may notice the blue painters’ tape which is used for protecting the material in clamping and layout marks. George also used the tape to cover the filler/spacing letters as a reminder for himself not to cut into that area. Before George begins his routing, he double checks his clamps, just to be safe.

This first photo shows the depth stop.  The depth of cut is determined by the amount of contrast you want and the profile of the router bit.  Test several cuts on scrap before moving on. When routing the letters, it is important to move slowly and keep the guide bushing touching the sides of the letter guide.  A successful cut is when the bottom of the letter is clean as this picture shows.  Depending on the depth of the router bit and the profile of the cutter you may need to make several passes through the center of the letter guides to have crisp letters.

The final step is to proportionally size and cut the sign material on the tablesaw,

followed by routing the corners of the material with your choice of Roundover Router Bit selections from Woodcraft.

This King ColorCore material and SignCrafter Kit is a great combination for signs that will last a lifetime in an inside or outside environment.

The MILESCRAFT Kit also comes in a SignPro Deluxe Sign Making Jig, Woodcraft Item #147862, which will accommodate vertical and horizontal sign creation.

All of these items are available at your local Woodcraft store or online.